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Sony RX10/4 A little bit of help please.

cheddar-caveman 17 1.2k England
20 Dec 2019 12:25PM
Thanks again Chris, don't despair of an old man being stubborn! I really appreciate all your help and am now shooting RAW+JPEG so that I can play with the images.

Please understand where I'm coming from Chris, Canon and then Fuji both of which have "spot" focus, very accurate focus points which I have been used to over the past 10+ years and the Sony "point" is huge in comparison. I appreciate that the Sony is not in their league and I must accept that - which I am, slowly. It is a whole new experience, one which my old brain is finding difficult to grasp, but I will.

I'm using Photos, not the older iPhoto and it has full RAW processing capability. I couldn't get this one mentioned in your post of 17th. to work, don't know why. It seemed to install all right but just wouldn't open just kept getting the message that it "quit unexpectedly".
cheddar-caveman 17 1.2k England
20 Dec 2019 12:40PM
Again can't edit above post??? I have got the RAW editor working now thanks.
saltireblue Plus
11 11.9k 75 Norway
20 Dec 2019 3:22PM

Quote:Again can't edit above post???

You only have a 5 min window to edit comments.Smile
cheddar-caveman 17 1.2k England
20 Dec 2019 3:27PM
MentorRon 2 102 Canada
20 Dec 2019 7:11PM
So glad you are getting things sorted with your new camera.

I can sympathize with you, with so many used cameras that I pick up and every one has a different menu and what become my personal preferences for each. Of course there are other things too, like keeping all their various batteries charged in case I decide to use a specific one on a particular day/subject.
I love the Lithium batteries, but so sad there hadn't been a standard Lithium size/voltage set (like double AAs) so one battery would fit many (or all) cameras. Even within a brand, every new camera has a new size of battery.
Several used cameras came with no battery or charger, so that is an additional cost. Luckily many of these are available for very little $$$ on the Web (mostly from Asia), but these all work just fine: no issues with vendors or pricing.
Here are my older group of cameras (c.2005-2012) where the majority took AAs (4 of the 6 shown). Not so any more :-(

cheddar-caveman 17 1.2k England
20 Dec 2019 7:59PM
Nice MentorRon. Every manufacturer wants people to only buy their products but it doesn't work very well with batteries as they are pretty easy to copy. Most have the same cells inside, just a different shaped plastic case!
Lipos certainly changed the battery world being basically a flexible cell which can be manufactured in almost any shape and which also doesn't have a "memory" like its predecessor the NiCds.
Yes I'm getting to grips with the Sony, just such a HUGE menu as it caters for serious movie making as well as stills, and some of the options cover both.
Right now I just want to master straight forward "snaps" for want of a better word, before going into the more complex operations. I'll get there. We're hoping to do a short safari in the coming year so that's my deadline!!!
cheddar-caveman 17 1.2k England
20 Dec 2019 10:44PM
Took my little dog on our usual evening walk, sun had gone down so was quite dark and I saw this Dipper, quite a rare bird here in the UK, sitting on a branch over the flooded river. Oh well, give it a go, and was very surprised that I actually got a reasonable image.
ISO3200 - f4 - 1/40th - 220mm hand held! Yes it's grainy but hey, ir looks like what is is!!

MentorRon 2 102 Canada
21 Dec 2019 5:39PM
I screenshot-copied the image you uploaded and gave it a pass through my Demo "free" edition of Neat Image V8, just leaving all the defaults at normal but using Auto Fine-Tune before Outputting image. I use this with my P'n'Shoot cameras when having to utilize ISO1600, which causes the same artifacts from their 1/2.3" CCDs.


cheddar-caveman 17 1.2k England
21 Dec 2019 5:56PM
Umm, must get some of that for high ISO work as the weather is so terrible at the moment we've forgotten what sun is!
MentorRon 2 102 Canada
21 Dec 2019 6:02PM
You can get the Demo edition free here.

I downloaded the Standalone version as I don't have any "paid-for" Image editor program.

I just use a 3 click process.

Find the image
Auto Fine-Tune
Output Image

When you compare the input and output images, it appears that the output is less sharp, but that's just because the removal of grain makes your brain THINK it's less sharp. Wink But you soon realize there is no missing detail. You can then use one click of sharpening in whatever other program you use, if that helps Wink I use Irfanview for that.
cheddar-caveman 17 1.2k England
21 Dec 2019 6:34PM
MentorRon 2 102 Canada
21 Dec 2019 10:43PM
Here is an example of how it helps a small Point'n'Shoot camera. In this case my Fuji F100fd.
I am usually reluctant to use ISO1600 with a small CCD sensor, but to get a handheld shot it
is occasionally necessary to prevent blurring. These are crops from center of the frame at ISO1600.
This was taken just when I got the camera and was testing out it's various settings.


After (no sharpening)

After sharpening in Irfanview (1 click)

Chris_L 7 5.5k United Kingdom
22 Dec 2019 3:52PM
You can not use a 600mm lens and shoot handheld at 1/40s in dull weather and expect sharp shots. I'm looking at the EXIF for your shot of the Dipper

Shutter Speed:1/40s
Focal Length:220.0 mm
Exposure Mode:Aperture-priority AE
Metering Mode:Spot
White Balance:Auto

There are several things which explain why a lot of your shots look bad:

Metering Mode:Spot - Spot metering means if the spot is mainly over a black part of your subject then camera will overexpose and over a white part it will underexpose. Switch to a metering mode that considers more of the scene.

Shutter Speed:1/40s
There's no way to get a sharp photo full zoom at 1/40s. Even on a tripod slightest breeze or subject movement will cause a tiny blur that will manifest itself as an unsharp image.

Focal Length:220.0 mm
If you're always fully zoomed in, which you seem to be on the shots of yours that I've studied. Your widest aperture can only ever be f4, you would be far better off being in control of the shutter duration. Superzooms are rarely sharpest at the extremes, try some shots without being fully zoomed in.

I would advise that you try to shoot Tv/Shutter Priority and AutoISO. I'd choose a safer shutter duration, 1/200s at most, open it for any longer and you are going to get blur. Let camera choose aperture, it will choose as wide as possible in low light and it will choose the lowest possible ISO that will balance the other settings.

Maybe because spot metering is causing images to underexpose or due to an error you have Exposure Compensation set to always overexpose your images by a full stop! Sad

cheddar-caveman 17 1.2k England
22 Dec 2019 5:26PM
Thanks Chris - again! I was surprised I got as good a image as I did considering how dark it was!
I've switched over to shutter priority, 1/200 and will use it next time out. We've had continual rain now for more than a week!!

Her's an unusual one from today. We have little water birds called Grebe. Every time you get anywhere near them they dive and swim away under water so I thought I'd try and capture them as they did.
Switched to Continuous Shooting and yes, the tracking was very good!

cheddar-caveman 17 1.2k England
31 Dec 2019 9:56AM
Still very hit and miss!! Two shots taken at the same time, same settings, two very different results, Starling reasonable sharp, Sparrow rubbish??? In both cases the "focus point" was on the body of the bird.



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