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This is a big improvement, and images like this would do well in the main Gallery.
A small niggle but I'd like to see a bit more space in front of the bird, perhaps you do have that on the original frame. That's always a point to bear in mind of cropping too closely.
Marix metering has worked well for you too.
Focus is nicely on the eye and while I agree about f/5.6 if you have the eye and surrounding area sharp that's more important.
Perseverance has paid off. You have a good variety of species to keep you busy.
A small niggle but I'd like to see a bit more space in front of the bird, perhaps you do have that on the original frame. That's always a point to bear in mind of cropping too closely.
Marix metering has worked well for you too.
Focus is nicely on the eye and while I agree about f/5.6 if you have the eye and surrounding area sharp that's more important.
Perseverance has paid off. You have a good variety of species to keep you busy.
A big improvement! The eye is sharp, and that conveys so much more life, animation, character.
The big difference is in shutter speed, but there is also a difference in circumstances here, in that the light was clearly much better. And that better light opens up more possibilities. F/4 worked slightly against you here because of the angle of the bird's body, sloping away from you. F/5.6 would have given a wee bit more depth of field, and would still have enabled 1/500 second which would be fine. The advice to use your widest aperture covered the circumstances where as in your blue tit shot ISO 1250 was still only allowing 1/80 second... some mental flexibility is required! But I hope that you can see that this is way better than the previous birds.
A little more space in front of the bird, as Keith says...
Moira
The big difference is in shutter speed, but there is also a difference in circumstances here, in that the light was clearly much better. And that better light opens up more possibilities. F/4 worked slightly against you here because of the angle of the bird's body, sloping away from you. F/5.6 would have given a wee bit more depth of field, and would still have enabled 1/500 second which would be fine. The advice to use your widest aperture covered the circumstances where as in your blue tit shot ISO 1250 was still only allowing 1/80 second... some mental flexibility is required! But I hope that you can see that this is way better than the previous birds.
A little more space in front of the bird, as Keith says...
Moira
Thank you dark_lord and mrswoolybill.
I am a little surprised at how good the images are for the S3, first time attempting birds. I spot meter normally as I started them to use as practice for Raptors in flight at a centre for them. Obviously metering the sky in matrix would ruin the bird images and I may as well spot meter as it also gives me my focus point.
On the S5 I noticed that using wide 1 or wide 2 for the dynamic range slowed down focus if I recall correctly, its a few yeas back now. So I generally stick to 170% and below.
Crops were just rough ones although on the S3 I didn't rotate to portrait in shooting. I found it best focusing to use the top one of the 5 points or likely to chop off tails.
Dof for me is too shallow, would prefer more or all of the bird to be pinsharp.
I will switch back to the S5 and work on its settings too now but using this lens. Sensors are a bit different although a lot of the settings will match.
I am a little surprised at how good the images are for the S3, first time attempting birds. I spot meter normally as I started them to use as practice for Raptors in flight at a centre for them. Obviously metering the sky in matrix would ruin the bird images and I may as well spot meter as it also gives me my focus point.
On the S5 I noticed that using wide 1 or wide 2 for the dynamic range slowed down focus if I recall correctly, its a few yeas back now. So I generally stick to 170% and below.
Crops were just rough ones although on the S3 I didn't rotate to portrait in shooting. I found it best focusing to use the top one of the 5 points or likely to chop off tails.
Dof for me is too shallow, would prefer more or all of the bird to be pinsharp.
I will switch back to the S5 and work on its settings too now but using this lens. Sensors are a bit different although a lot of the settings will match.
1/750 is the key to the improvement, I'm sure.
Well done: the benefit of decent light levels.
Did you use the central focus spot on the eye, and subsequent cropping?
A question about the dynamic range settings - do they affect the RAW image at all? If not, don't worry about them. My guess (and it's only a guess) is that doing extra processing might slow the frame rate, but probably not the focus speed, unless the camera algorithms try to multitask.
Part of my message is that it's important to concentrate on the key issues, and not get hung up on peripheral technical matters.
Well done: the benefit of decent light levels.
Did you use the central focus spot on the eye, and subsequent cropping?
A question about the dynamic range settings - do they affect the RAW image at all? If not, don't worry about them. My guess (and it's only a guess) is that doing extra processing might slow the frame rate, but probably not the focus speed, unless the camera algorithms try to multitask.
Part of my message is that it's important to concentrate on the key issues, and not get hung up on peripheral technical matters.
Thanks for your regular feedback, and for persevering and experimenting.
I'm sure that one big difference here, as I mentioned above, is that you had much better light. At this time of year, such opportunities don't happen every day - or even every week! Make the most of them when they happen...
Reading back over the last few uploads - one comment. You mention listening for the 'clack' of the shutter as a guide to shutter speed - do you not see a visual display at the bottom of the viewfinder, showing current settings? Assuming that you have that, it's important to keep a constant eye on it. With aperture priority, just changing the angle of the camera slightly may the shutter speed. (And vice versa...)
I'm sure that one big difference here, as I mentioned above, is that you had much better light. At this time of year, such opportunities don't happen every day - or even every week! Make the most of them when they happen...
Reading back over the last few uploads - one comment. You mention listening for the 'clack' of the shutter as a guide to shutter speed - do you not see a visual display at the bottom of the viewfinder, showing current settings? Assuming that you have that, it's important to keep a constant eye on it. With aperture priority, just changing the angle of the camera slightly may the shutter speed. (And vice versa...)
dudler -
Quote:Did you use the central focus spot on the eye, and subsequent cropping?
No to using central focus point. I started out trying to but it just meant things got cropped out of frame, ie tails. Switched to one above central point. Yes to having cropped frames, not something I do really much.
Quote:A question about the dynamic range settings - do they affect the RAW image at all?
Pretty sure the answer to that is yes as its part of the sensor array that Fuji developed in their camera's.
Quote:doing extra processing might slow the frame rate, but probably not the focus speed
I only have memory to go on, it was a few years back now but it definitely had a large impact for shooting in flight birds. I recall purposely switching off the wide modes and not using them specifically.
The manual on page 112 in relation to D-Range states -
Quote:when [100% std] is selected, the continuous shooting interval will be faster. Also in this case only S-pixel is used for images and only 100% can be selected in the dynamic range settings in the software (HU-V3 software.)
. - This in fact seems why I use the settings I do to me making logical sense with frame rate.
Having quoted that the settings available are -
Quote:Auto, 100%std, 130%, 170%, 230% Wide 1, 300%, 400% Wide 2
I generally have it set to 170% and pretty sure that is because of the frame shooting rate coupled with in software ability.
mrswoolybill
Just submitting an image for review where you have the ability to interact and respond would make no sense. It bothers me at times it may annoy Critique Team members with my replies and comments but unless you understand the how and why to shooting in the manner I do fully then your responses are limited or not looking at the relevant areas perhaps. I sure do not go out of my way to annoy the team.
I also work at my photography, I put effort into doing it and think about it whilst doing it(I am the same with playing (some say trying to) guitar, I work at it and put effort in). I rarely place subjects central, shoot to use entire frame (hang up of being a child with firstly a 126 film then a 35mm film camera.). Prints were a pop down to Chemists to be sent off job, no money for enlargements and be happy with the results and the at times strange processing defects returned.
Quote:With aperture priority, just changing the angle of the camera slightly may the shutter speed.
All images I submitted recently have been entirely shot using Manual mode exclusively. I do use Auto focus for the lens in C or S and will use M for that also if I deem it required or easier. On a side note for the S5 (and D-700 before it expired) I use back button focusing and not the shutter release. The S3 does not have that ability as far as I can tell.
Quote:You mention listening for the 'clack' of the shutter as a guide to shutter speed
Yes, I listen to it as it is an audible warning to take care or make adjustments. It is a habit of mine. Its the only sound the birds/animals hear so I may as well utilise it also to my advantage.
Quote:do you not see a visual display at the bottom of the viewfinder, showing current settings? Assuming that you have that, it's important to keep a constant eye on it.
Yes I see the setting in camera when I start. After that I watch the exposure meter needle. If I have to alter it a lot then some setting or other is incorrect requiring me to delve further.
Quote:Did you use the central focus spot on the eye, and subsequent cropping?
No to using central focus point. I started out trying to but it just meant things got cropped out of frame, ie tails. Switched to one above central point. Yes to having cropped frames, not something I do really much.
Quote:A question about the dynamic range settings - do they affect the RAW image at all?
Pretty sure the answer to that is yes as its part of the sensor array that Fuji developed in their camera's.
Quote:doing extra processing might slow the frame rate, but probably not the focus speed
I only have memory to go on, it was a few years back now but it definitely had a large impact for shooting in flight birds. I recall purposely switching off the wide modes and not using them specifically.
The manual on page 112 in relation to D-Range states -
Quote:when [100% std] is selected, the continuous shooting interval will be faster. Also in this case only S-pixel is used for images and only 100% can be selected in the dynamic range settings in the software (HU-V3 software.)
. - This in fact seems why I use the settings I do to me making logical sense with frame rate.
Having quoted that the settings available are -
Quote:Auto, 100%std, 130%, 170%, 230% Wide 1, 300%, 400% Wide 2
I generally have it set to 170% and pretty sure that is because of the frame shooting rate coupled with in software ability.
mrswoolybill
Just submitting an image for review where you have the ability to interact and respond would make no sense. It bothers me at times it may annoy Critique Team members with my replies and comments but unless you understand the how and why to shooting in the manner I do fully then your responses are limited or not looking at the relevant areas perhaps. I sure do not go out of my way to annoy the team.
I also work at my photography, I put effort into doing it and think about it whilst doing it(I am the same with playing (some say trying to) guitar, I work at it and put effort in). I rarely place subjects central, shoot to use entire frame (hang up of being a child with firstly a 126 film then a 35mm film camera.). Prints were a pop down to Chemists to be sent off job, no money for enlargements and be happy with the results and the at times strange processing defects returned.
Quote:With aperture priority, just changing the angle of the camera slightly may the shutter speed.
All images I submitted recently have been entirely shot using Manual mode exclusively. I do use Auto focus for the lens in C or S and will use M for that also if I deem it required or easier. On a side note for the S5 (and D-700 before it expired) I use back button focusing and not the shutter release. The S3 does not have that ability as far as I can tell.
Quote:You mention listening for the 'clack' of the shutter as a guide to shutter speed
Yes, I listen to it as it is an audible warning to take care or make adjustments. It is a habit of mine. Its the only sound the birds/animals hear so I may as well utilise it also to my advantage.
Quote:do you not see a visual display at the bottom of the viewfinder, showing current settings? Assuming that you have that, it's important to keep a constant eye on it.
Yes I see the setting in camera when I start. After that I watch the exposure meter needle. If I have to alter it a lot then some setting or other is incorrect requiring me to delve further.
Don't worry about making comments that give us information, engaging in dialogue helps us understand circumstances and allows discussion of issues, helps us with appropriate feedback and ultimately helps you progress, as your recent uploads show.
If only some others who upload here would do half as much.
If only some others who upload here would do half as much.
Quote:I put effort into doing it and think about it whilst doing it
I wish more people could say that! Thanks for your continued interaction, and my apologies for the reference to aperture priority. A senior moment...
Moira
Well team, I was going to put off doing any setup on the S5 due to rainfall but it was intermittent sooooooo ..... Light not as good as yesterday but stuck to iso 800 but on the newer S5. I have far more focus points to select from which makes shooting birds far easier to begin with and frame during shoot. Having done that I then cropped what I have uploaded as Versions - note the first in versions is an S3 image, the rest are S5 but with one of three lens.
images in Versions number 2 to 7 inc.
Nikon 300mm f4 IF ED.
Sigma 500mm 7.2 APO. This lens is manual focus only. It also has no metering electronic couplings at all, exif contained in it's image files are incorrect.
Nikkor 35-135 3.5-4.5 AF
Fuji S5 Manual mode, Matrix Metering. Wide 2 400% D-Range. All 3 lens custom wb using Mennon wb cap on attachment Adobe rgb in camera.
Sotware - PS ACR (note on W7 so not latest) only.
Rough crops made just for display here.
Conditions rainfall and dry but light remained pretty consistent.
images in Versions number 2 to 7 inc.
Nikon 300mm f4 IF ED.
Sigma 500mm 7.2 APO. This lens is manual focus only. It also has no metering electronic couplings at all, exif contained in it's image files are incorrect.
Nikkor 35-135 3.5-4.5 AF
Fuji S5 Manual mode, Matrix Metering. Wide 2 400% D-Range. All 3 lens custom wb using Mennon wb cap on attachment Adobe rgb in camera.
Sotware - PS ACR (note on W7 so not latest) only.
Rough crops made just for display here.
Conditions rainfall and dry but light remained pretty consistent.
