'Portrait Photography' Competition - Win A Samyang 85mm F/1.4 FE II Lens!
Comments
I don't think that perspective and the train matter too much. It's not far off, and not the focus of the picture.
The shadow on the seller's eyes is a difficulty, and I'm not sure if it's rescuable. Certainly, a lot of painstaking work on the levels would be needed, and probably involving layers... That scares me, but you may be fine with it.
The other thing is the building. It's big. It's red. And it's very much there. Would cloning trees over it be allowed? Is it worth it anyway?
I think I'd conclude that it would take a lot of work to be reasonably good, and the building and shadow mean it will never be outstanding.
Sorry - but it might save you a lot of work!
The shadow on the seller's eyes is a difficulty, and I'm not sure if it's rescuable. Certainly, a lot of painstaking work on the levels would be needed, and probably involving layers... That scares me, but you may be fine with it.
The other thing is the building. It's big. It's red. And it's very much there. Would cloning trees over it be allowed? Is it worth it anyway?
I think I'd conclude that it would take a lot of work to be reasonably good, and the building and shadow mean it will never be outstanding.
Sorry - but it might save you a lot of work!
A very colourfull image Jasmine
Cliff
Cliff
I agree with dudler I would try to clone out the building
in my software you can lighten shadows... but not sure what you use
I have coral....not by choice I just have always had it
in my software you can lighten shadows... but not sure what you use
I have coral....not by choice I just have always had it
Open it in RAW and then click AUTO for the exposure.
Thats whats done in the mod, with a little sharpening. At 70mm theres really nothing wrong with perspective.
I know this is a broken record, - you underexpose most of your shots due to how you use spot metering, and this is part of the issue here too.
Let me know if the mods works for you
Regards
Willie
Thats whats done in the mod, with a little sharpening. At 70mm theres really nothing wrong with perspective.
I know this is a broken record, - you underexpose most of your shots due to how you use spot metering, and this is part of the issue here too.
Let me know if the mods works for you
Regards
Willie
I love the colourful photograph Jasmine he looks so happy to be photographed.
Patty
Patty
Thanks Willie.
I use spot meter to preserve the high light and also get the contrast, sometimes I can't totally depend on what the meter says at all, because it was too dark anyway.. without tripod, I have to get on with it..
Up to this photo;
When I started to take photos of him, he was in the distance under the shadow, at about 300mm range, I wasn't prepared when he suddenly came out and put a big smile on, so I just had a quick dial, and shot. I didn't want the top light, which was flashing lose detail, even the whole image is a bit underexposed,but it can be easily adjusted on ACR. I'll show you the default; +1 stop; and +2 stop screen shots.
Thank you all.
I use spot meter to preserve the high light and also get the contrast, sometimes I can't totally depend on what the meter says at all, because it was too dark anyway.. without tripod, I have to get on with it..
Up to this photo;
When I started to take photos of him, he was in the distance under the shadow, at about 300mm range, I wasn't prepared when he suddenly came out and put a big smile on, so I just had a quick dial, and shot. I didn't want the top light, which was flashing lose detail, even the whole image is a bit underexposed,but it can be easily adjusted on ACR. I'll show you the default; +1 stop; and +2 stop screen shots.
Thank you all.
I like this, Jas. My kind of people picture. Strong and happy, but you just don't need all that background including part of the land train. Assuming this is not already a big crop the 5D should easily allow a lot ofcropping whilst retaining quality.
Is his face fully sharp on the big file.
Spot metering will do nothing that any other type of metering will not do. It is the most accurate method of in camera metering providing you meter from the correct tone, 18% grey or equivelant. I would try some experiments metering the same scene with all the metering modes and see what you get.
The only really foolproof metering is with a hand meter and an incident light attachment. You then meter the light actually falling on the subject. Even then, it can go wrong if you misjudge the light source. The old Weston Master with invercone is the classic and you could getone, second hand, quite cheap. it uses a Selenium cell, so no batteries.
I use a Sekonic L-308s when I have time.
Paul
Is his face fully sharp on the big file.
Spot metering will do nothing that any other type of metering will not do. It is the most accurate method of in camera metering providing you meter from the correct tone, 18% grey or equivelant. I would try some experiments metering the same scene with all the metering modes and see what you get.
The only really foolproof metering is with a hand meter and an incident light attachment. You then meter the light actually falling on the subject. Even then, it can go wrong if you misjudge the light source. The old Weston Master with invercone is the classic and you could getone, second hand, quite cheap. it uses a Selenium cell, so no batteries.
I use a Sekonic L-308s when I have time.
Paul
All the metrics and measures are useful, Jasmine, but the real test is 'does it look right?'
In your screenshots, I think the light will show overexposure early because it is so saturated. You can ignore it, or hold back the highlights a touch. And it's the skin tones that matter most with a portrait.
In your screenshots, I think the light will show overexposure early because it is so saturated. You can ignore it, or hold back the highlights a touch. And it's the skin tones that matter most with a portrait.
Thank you Paul.
Quote:Assuming this is not already a big crop the 5D should easily allow a lot ofcropping whilst retaining quality.
No, it is original frame, I didn't do anything much apart from brightened up his face a bit.
Quote:Is his face fully sharp on the big file.
, I think it's fine, the best I can get.. I'll upload screen shot at 200% zoom for to have a look.
I heard that people use hand meter, some meter on the grass, or hand or sky.. I haven't got that fine detailed stage yet, mainly I have very limited time, I have to shoot fast and move fast.. I will have a look of the meters.
Quote: it uses a Selenium cell, so no batteries.
Sounds attractive.
Thank you John.
Quote:All the metrics and measures are useful, Jasmine, but the real test is 'does it look right?'
I agree with you.. I
Quote:n your screenshots, I think the light will show overexposure early because it is so saturated.
I don't quite understand what you meant, could you explain further please?
I know that light affects colour, and from Ronnie's flower photos , the colour looked beautiful, I never work out how he got these colours... I wonder if it is something to do with under exposure. The strong saturation on this photo is the result of underexposure. Does it have anything to do with whole image's histogram and warning sign?
Quote:And it's the skin tones that matter most with a portrait.
Good point!
Thank you all, again.
Quote:Assuming this is not already a big crop the 5D should easily allow a lot ofcropping whilst retaining quality.
No, it is original frame, I didn't do anything much apart from brightened up his face a bit.
Quote:Is his face fully sharp on the big file.
, I think it's fine, the best I can get..
I'll upload screen shot at 200% zoom for to have a look.I heard that people use hand meter, some meter on the grass, or hand or sky.. I haven't got that fine detailed stage yet, mainly I have very limited time, I have to shoot fast and move fast.. I will have a look of the meters.
Quote: it uses a Selenium cell, so no batteries.
Sounds attractive.
Thank you John.
Quote:All the metrics and measures are useful, Jasmine, but the real test is 'does it look right?'
I agree with you.. I
Quote:n your screenshots, I think the light will show overexposure early because it is so saturated.
I don't quite understand what you meant, could you explain further please?
I know that light affects colour, and from Ronnie's flower photos , the colour looked beautiful, I never work out how he got these colours... I wonder if it is something to do with under exposure. The strong saturation on this photo is the result of underexposure. Does it have anything to do with whole image's histogram and warning sign?
Quote:And it's the skin tones that matter most with a portrait.
Good point!
Thank you all, again.
Sorry for the delay.
What I was trying to say was that you can get the flashing warnings for overexposure coming up if an area is very saturated with one colour - such as the flashing orange light here.
So, to get an overall right result, you need to let it go, and not alter the exposure, as it will push you towards overall underexposure. Better one weak highlight than a whole picture pushed down the tonal scale.
What I was trying to say was that you can get the flashing warnings for overexposure coming up if an area is very saturated with one colour - such as the flashing orange light here.
So, to get an overall right result, you need to let it go, and not alter the exposure, as it will push you towards overall underexposure. Better one weak highlight than a whole picture pushed down the tonal scale.
