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Barge Ring

By webbep
Barge ring on Tiverton canal

Tags: General Boating

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Comments


webbep 16
28 Mar 2021 8:02PM
This was taken with a Fujifilm X- S10 for some reason not showing in selection.
pamelajean Plus
15 1.5k 2211 United Kingdom
28 Mar 2021 9:43PM
Hello, Paul, it's good to see you uploading again, after 4 years' absence. You're not new to the Critique Gallery, so you know how we operate here.

We do ask that you give us a bit more information about the image you show, e.g. what your feelings are about it, if you are happy with the capture, if there is anything in particular that you want critique about, and information like that. This helps us to offer comments and suggestions that will be what you are looking for.

We often see these mooring rings in a rusty condition, and there is a great following for rust and decay on this site. But this one looks quite new and pristine.
I like your idea of honing in close to an item of interest, and one that has a good strong shape.
However, the background is a bit fussy and distracts attention from your subject. It's often a good idea to include a bit of context in your frame, but you need to try for an angle whereby there isn't a lot of clutter around, if at all possible. Being alongside water, would it have been possible to find an angle whereby there was some water in the background, perhaps?

You have a static subject and a fast shutter speed isn't necessary, but to avoid camera movement of shake, a bit faster would have been safer. As to your aperture, I don't feel f11 was necessary here. In fact, a larger aperture/smaller f-number would have isolated the barge ring more and left more of the background blurred, which wouldn't have been a bad idea here.

So, dealing with the image that you present, I have done a modification. I have made a drastic crop, eliminating a lot of the fuss in the background, mainly achieved by rotating 30 degrees clockwise and cloning in the corners after the crop. I left the bottom right bit of background because it adds some depth to the image. This crop eliminated some burnt-out areas on the top left as well as the twigs. I then made some contrast adjustments and sharpened, then added a frame.

I hope you like it.

Pamela.
mrswoolybill Plus
14 2.7k 2395 United Kingdom
28 Mar 2021 9:49PM
Hi Paul, it's nearly four years since you last uploaded for critique, welcome back!

Can you tell us more please. You've answered what was to be my first question, about the camera - you can edit the upload to add that information. But my next question, how do you see this? What were you trying to achieve, and do you think that you succeeded? Next, how did you take this, did you use a tripod or hand-hold? And finally, how did you focus, and where did you intend to focus? (If you used auto focus, did you see several points or a single point, and if the latter where did you place it?)

I'm seeing the potential for an interesting composition. But everything, apart possibly from the twig top right, is very soft, and that's a problem. The focus needs to be on the ring, I'm trying to work out why that area is soft. Most likely a mix of camera shake and focusing error?
Moira
dark_lord Plus
17 2.8k 761 England
28 Mar 2021 10:27PM
Welcome back from me too.

We do need o know wht you wantd to achieve so we can offer suggestions accordingly.
As it is, this has sufferd from amera shake. You culd have used a wider aperture (I think f/5.6 on your camera woud be fine here) and increase the ISO to 400 without any real loss of image quality (noise) resulting in a much healthier shutter speed of 1/125 assuming you had no support.
Were you standing or kneling, using the viewfinder or holding the camera at arms lenght? All will have an effect on stabilty.
It's worth visiing in different conditions (rain would look good) and times of year (for example frost) for added interest.
banehawi Plus
16 2.4k 4227 Canada
29 Mar 2021 2:04PM
The reason the camera isnt identified is that its not in the EPZ database.

Next time you upload, you can add the camera yourself during the upload process, and EPZ will include it.

The XS-10 has IBIS, but at this focal length, and possible closeness to subject, the shutter speed is too slow for IBIS to manage effectively I would think.

W
dudler Plus
17 1.6k 1832 England
29 Mar 2021 3:30PM
Welcome back from me, too, Paul.

If you do want us to look at your picture as carefully and thoroughly as possible, we need more information from you. If we're going to give you the best feedback that we possibly can, we need real input from you, including a lot more information. That way, the critique that we give is far more likely to be what you are looking for, and consequently far more helpful to you.

What is your reason for requesting critique?
What inspired you to take this photo?
What were you hoping to achieve?
Do you feel that you succeeded or failed?
Are there any specific elements of your photo that you want help with?
Do you want advice on camera settings, processing, composition, or something else?
Do you have any particular questions you would like answered?

Without that data, it's only possible to offer limited comments, as Pamela, Moira Keith and Willie have already done.
webbep 16
29 Mar 2021 5:02PM
Thanks for the replyís looking at what you all have wrote I think I need to consider the picture a little more before asking for critique . At the moment Iím trying to get to grips with the new camera, Iím still a novice at this and was photographing anything that I found interesting. At this time I was trying to use just the aperture priority setting only, havenít ventured on to full manual function. I took several photos of this barge ring trying spot focusing on the ring fixing. Some more successful than others. For me the critique given is very useful as it has given me the knowledge that I should consider what Iím trying to achieve before just snapping away.
mrswoolybill Plus
14 2.7k 2395 United Kingdom
29 Mar 2021 5:53PM
Thanks for coming back to us, it makes all the difference! You haven't replied to the question as to whether you were using a tripod, but I assume that you weren't.

There's no need to venture into full manual, but there's something very important to remember here: while use of aperture priority is good for a subject like this, it is vitally important if hand-holding to watch the shutter speed that the camera calculates, and adjust ISO if necessary in order to achieve a safe speed.

Camera shake is always a worry, and as you extend your lens the centre of gravity moves away from your hands and the risk increases, so a faster shutter speed is needed. Your camera has, I think, a 1.5 crop factor, so the full frame equivalent of your lens is 24 - 120 mm. The camera has image stabilisation, but I would still aim to follow standard advice, keep to the reciprocal of the full frame equivalent - ie operate on a sliding scale of 1/25 to 1/125 second, or faster. Here, at around 100 mm full frame equivalent, aim for 1/100 second.

Next, consider your aperture - you didn't need massive depth of field here, F/5.6 would have been fine with careful focusing. As Keith says, go to 200 ISO and that gives you a much safer 1/125 second!

Then make sure that you are using the viewfinder, and using a single focusing point; watch your posture carefully, and focus very carefully.

(Equally if using shutter priority, watch the aperture that the camera calculates!)

Do keep posting in the Critique Gallery, we can help you to get to grips with the new camera!
Moira
dudler Plus
17 1.6k 1832 England
29 Mar 2021 7:10PM
Hi again, Paul, and thank you for the extra information.

And it's perfectly OK to post a picture for critique on the technical side of exposure, spot focus and so on - we just need to know that's what you were working on.

The big learning points here are:

1 take care of that shutter speed. As Moira says, it needs to be a bit higher, even though Fuji now have in-body stabilisation in their cameras;
2 the depth of field at different apertures is important, and if you were only wanting to get the fixing ring holding the horizontal ring down perfectly sharp, f/5.6 would be fine.

I want to suggest two exercises for you. Do both of them with the zoom set to one focal length throughout, to avoid too many variables. I suggest 50mm.

1 Stand next to a brick wall or a fence with a definite pattern, looking along it. Choose one brick, or one fence post fairly near to you, and focus on that. Lock the focus, and take shots at every aperture from the widest to the smallest. When you've downloaded them, compare them, and they will show you how depth of field varies with aperture.

2 To find out how steady YOU can hold a camera (we're all different), choose a subject with a fine pattern or detail - a newspaper a metre away from the camera is good. Starting with a shutter speed of 1/125, take ten pictures at each speed, moving downwards - 1/60, 1/30, 1/15 and 1/8. Again, look at them carefully on your computer, at 100% size, and count how many are sharp at each speed. If one out of ten is properly sharp at 1/15, then shooting at that speed is risky for you, with that camera and that focal length. If 7 or 8 out of 10 are sharp, then the speed is pretty safe.

If you want to be really meticulous, try doing that again with the image stabilisation switched off.

You will have dozens of boring pictures, but you will know a lot more about how to use you camera and its settings.

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