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Hi all, any ideas how to improve this image, please!!!!! Many thanks, Ania
These are modifications uploaded by other members of the photo above. Download the photo by right clicking Download Photo and clicking Save As.
Well spotted and great colour vibrancy.
I like your low angle , and clean background. You could close your lens a bit more to get even more depth of field. The flower is centered but not dead center since spacing left and right is uneven.
By turning your camera a bit to the left you could get a more dynamic diagonal with the stem going from left to right and making the "cup" level.
A nice capture !
I don't know what is portrayed here but it looks good with vibrant colours to catch the eye.
In attempting to answer your question, I feel that the flower is too straight up in the frame and an angle always helps to make such pictures easy on the eye. I will upload a mod to give you an idea what I am talking about where I will rotate the head by about 30º.
Regarding EXIF your aperture is a little too large for this kind of picture, I would suggest using somewhere around f8 for this, but it all depends upon the lens you are using and therefore the DOf given for the chosen settings. However, I do feel that maximum aperture is not the best place to be. You have a very low ISO rating which is good, but as you seem to need 1/200sec (unless you are using a tripod which I always recomment for this kind of thing), in order to get a few stops away, perhaps you should raise your ISO. certainly doubling it to 125 to use f5.6 will not be a problem, so therefore you need youirt tripod to get to f8 by dropping your shutter speed to 1/100sec.
Your best bet, given the lighting is 1/100sec, f8 and ISO 125 with a FL of 63mm. Most people can operate successfully at 1/100 hand held as long as they have a firm and steady grip.
A very attractive flower, Ania, with a clean blue sky background.
Red flowers are notoriously difficult to capture well, and you've done a good job here. To keep detail in reds, I use some negative exposure compensation and then lift the exposure in editing.
I agree with Frank about the composition, and have also done a modification with the stem emanating from the bottom right corner.
With a flower that has bits and pieces pointing in every direction, it can be difficult to get all of it in focus because each piece of the flower is on a different focal plane, so the advice about using a smaller aperture is good because it will enable you to get more in focus. You have a macro setting on your S5700 and it might have been worthwhile taking shots in macro as well as AP and checking out the difference.
Your focus seems to be on the top parts of the flower whereas, with the aperture you used, I would have expected you to focus on the prominent stamens at the bottom right.
In a review that I read, this camera is prone to blue fringing and, when zooming in on your image, this is very evident. However, this can happen with other cameras where you shoot into the sky. This is known as chromatic aberration, and while it is very tempting to use a wide aperture to get nice bokeh, if you get some fringing try to stop down the aperture at least one stop, and this will greatly help minimize the visible aberrations.
The "cup" part of your flower (which I think is just a large leaf) is very dark, and I think that, if you don't want to use a reflector to reflect light into the darker part of your subject, then a burst of flash would have done the trick.
In my modification, I rotated and cropped your image, removed some of the blue fringing, and brought some detail back into the underside of the leaf by using the shadows/highights option. I then selectively sharpened some parts of the flower.
Much as I advocate 'Aperture' for just about every occasion, in this instance I reckon that you'd have been better off using your camera's built-in 'Macro' or even 'Super macro mode,' depending upon how close you wanted to get to the flower.
Those little Fujis are capable of producing some excellent work in all modes and using their 'macro' settings, whilst they pose no threat to 'proper macro' lenses, they can give really good results.
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