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Stunning photo. Rich
Excellent. I went to a talk by Ollie Taylor this week, a nightscape photographer (you might know of him?). The most valuable bit of info was about taking an exposure for the foreground and blending. Anything up to 10 mins. I guess you did this. I have taken shots of the milky way but just left the foreground to look after itself....which it doesn't!
superb ....
Douglas
Douglas
Hi It's me again! Well deserved award. Congratulations.
So, hoping to pick your brains some more.......
I reckon the 422 seconds was for the foreground/land. I was reminded to use the camera's long exposure noise reduction for this bit. I think all the exif on this shot is for the foreground? About the sky.....keeping the ISO low (how low dare you go?), I am wondering if you did multiple shots and stacked them? If so, how many? I guess at less than 15 seconds each?
This is such an impressive image, you are the man to ask
. Hope you are willing to share and don't think I am too cheeky
So, hoping to pick your brains some more.......
I reckon the 422 seconds was for the foreground/land. I was reminded to use the camera's long exposure noise reduction for this bit. I think all the exif on this shot is for the foreground? About the sky.....keeping the ISO low (how low dare you go?), I am wondering if you did multiple shots and stacked them? If so, how many? I guess at less than 15 seconds each?
This is such an impressive image, you are the man to ask
. Hope you are willing to share and don't think I am too cheeky
flowerpower59
You can either do this type of image in one shot but at crazy ISO like 6400 for 20 secs exposure but the foreground will be pitch black unless you light it up.
I lit this one up but the castle and cliffs are hundreds of feet away so needed a good 10 mins to light paint. The sky is the same length of exposure but the camera is now mounted on a tracker but same ISO of 400 to keep noise down.
I've shot 30 min exposures at ISO 200 of the Milky Way and the stars are pin sharp using a tracker. The longer exposure and lower ISO the better because the noise is reduced and more importantly, dynamic range is retained and the colours are better saturated.
This image is just 10 mins at ISO 400 because astronomical twilight was about to start (sun at 18 degrees below the horizon and climbing). You need about 2 hrs before sunrise and 2 hrs after to get a true dark sky, assuming its not light polluted. Most of Scotland is Bortle Class 1 (Darkest) or Class 2. Elsewhere you need to be about an hour by car away from cities like Aberdeen or Glasgow to get away from the light pollution.
The Milky Way core rises in the eastern sky towards dawn so you need to east of towns and cities to get the darkest skies. Ideally like Stonehaven, you look across the dark North Sea.
Hope that helps.
You can either do this type of image in one shot but at crazy ISO like 6400 for 20 secs exposure but the foreground will be pitch black unless you light it up.
I lit this one up but the castle and cliffs are hundreds of feet away so needed a good 10 mins to light paint. The sky is the same length of exposure but the camera is now mounted on a tracker but same ISO of 400 to keep noise down.
I've shot 30 min exposures at ISO 200 of the Milky Way and the stars are pin sharp using a tracker. The longer exposure and lower ISO the better because the noise is reduced and more importantly, dynamic range is retained and the colours are better saturated.
This image is just 10 mins at ISO 400 because astronomical twilight was about to start (sun at 18 degrees below the horizon and climbing). You need about 2 hrs before sunrise and 2 hrs after to get a true dark sky, assuming its not light polluted. Most of Scotland is Bortle Class 1 (Darkest) or Class 2. Elsewhere you need to be about an hour by car away from cities like Aberdeen or Glasgow to get away from the light pollution.
The Milky Way core rises in the eastern sky towards dawn so you need to east of towns and cities to get the darkest skies. Ideally like Stonehaven, you look across the dark North Sea.
Hope that helps.
Thank you for taking the time and trouble to explain all that. Not what I had thought at all. I don't have a tracker so I guess my best (only?) option is to take multiple exposures and stack them, both of the foreground and the stars. I was hoping to be able to make a visible foreground without lightpainting.
Anyway, again, congratulations. I am inspired, as you can tell
. Will just have to get out there and keep trying.
Anyway, again, congratulations. I am inspired, as you can tell
. Will just have to get out there and keep trying.
Gorgeous photo. Nice to see how it was done.
Peter
Peter
