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Golden Orb Weaving Spider

By Wireworkzzz  
I have an Olympus 60mm 2.8 Macro lens but I am not happy with my images. I set it to 1:1 as I thought this would give me better focus range.I tried different Aperture settings from F5.6 up to F8. I didn't like to go any more than F8 as I read that the image will start to to lose quality after F8. I used Manual Mode and this may be part of the problem as I don't use it very often and find it hard to get manual focus spot on. I set the whole area to be focused hoping it would help. I didn't want to spot focus as I wanted the whole subject.I have uploaded and edited version and also the original. I shoot in RAW. Unfortunately I had the sun facing the camera so I used fill flash. I would welcome some feedback.

Tags: Spider Close-up and macro

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Comments


banehawi Plus
15 2.0k 4006 Canada
15 May 2019 12:45PM
This looks decent to me. Its backlit, and the fill flash being on camera may not have been able to contribute as much as you would hope for as the spider is close to the camera.

Even cropped closer, theres good detail, even the hairs on the legs are visible.

I have uploaded a mod thats got a little sharpening applied, and is slightly brighter.

I wonder if youve tried f/11, - you mentioned youve heard the lens isnt great below f/8, so you should see for yourself...

Ive read a few reviews about this lens, and it seems that Chromatic Aberrations are an issue from f/8 down to f/16, with f/22 being unusable. Chroma Aberrations may not be a big issue either if your camera can correct these in camera, - or you can do it in post processing, so do try and see what you get.


Regards


Willie

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paulbroad Plus
11 127 1282 United Kingdom
15 May 2019 9:33PM
Not bad at all. You are under a misconception. True macro lenses are computed to work well at SMALL apertures and are all fixed focal length - NO zooms. You should see no image degradation until above f22. I use my Sigma 105 and 150 and Fuji 60 mm at f18 to f22 almost all the time with ring flash.

Macro lenses need maximum depth of field, thus designed to work well at small apertures.

The camera built in flash is pretty well useless for macro. When this close the flash fires totally above the subject. I prefer a ring flash, using the Sigma unit with Canon. For the Fuji I use a powerful shoe mounted gun with diffuser. That throws enough light downwards for f18 at ISO200.

Paul
Thank you Willy for your comments and modification. I will definitely try F11 as this may give me a bit more focus range and as you say any chromatic aberrations may be fixed. I did wonder if the fill flash may have a negative effect.
Rae
Thank you Paul for your input. Now that I know I have been on the right track I will take the aperture down on all stops to see how it goes. Unfortunately I am a bit of a perfectionist and was worried about his feet being out of focus. I had read that using a torch can throw enough light and am wondering if that's worth trying.
Rae
paulbroad Plus
11 127 1282 United Kingdom
16 May 2019 7:25AM
It would have to be a very bright torch! As above, I am using flash just a foot or so away. The light from that is potentially pretty fierce. You have shot from above here, so there is a good chance of body and legs being in decent focus. From a side, that is near impossible without focus stacking.

Even at f22 and 1:1 with a macro lens, the depth of field will be just a few millimetres, and I mean 2 to 4!

If the reviews Willie has read are correct, then I fear that is not a very good macro lens.

Paul
Thanks Paul. I am going to practice doing macro of inanimate objects for a while and if I am successful I can try spiders again at a later date. Glad you got back to me about the torch and I was surprised that the difference by lowering the focus area would only be 2-4mm. As my images are all eclectic I probably won't be going in depth with macro so this lens may be OK for me.
Rae
dudler Plus
15 861 1488 England
16 May 2019 10:57AM
This actually works very well indeed, I'd say.

If you have a subject that is not likely to move, you could try focus stacking - worth looking up. Current Photoshop makes combining hte frames easy - I have tried it once, and it worked nicely.

There's one fallacy in what yo uwrote, when yo usaid that you chose area focus as you didn't want only one area sharp. In fact, however you focus, a whole plane of space will be sharp, and the trick is to align the camera so that the subject is as close as possible to having all areas the same distance from the camera. The depth of field is then only needed to cover hte front-to-back thickness of the subject.

'Only' - still too much, sometimes.

I have the same lens, and it's the best lens I have for my Olympus: as Paul says, macro lenses are designed to be more resistant to diffraction problems than other lenses, because macro work so often needs maximum depth of field - I shall have to play to see if I get problems at f/22. Soemtimes, though, it can be worth taking a bit of a hit in one area for the sake of a better overall result. As Willie says, try it and see how it works for you!

Having said all of that, this is a very decent image!
dark_lord Plus
15 2.3k 577 England
16 May 2019 9:24PM
It surprises me that Olympus have a 'poor' macro lens.

Find a static subject and do your own tests, with the camera held steady on a tripod.
Look carefully at the results and decide for yourself how small you can go.
Thank you dudler. Pleased to hear you are very happy with this lens. I have read about focus stacking and can see the benefit of it. I will work on getting the camera aligned and centring my subject. I just need to practice now that I am armed with all the help I have received
Rae
Thank you for your comments dark_lord. If dudler is very happy with his lens then it must be me. I am sure the problem I had was all to do with how I was using it. This was my first attempt and I have never used a macro lens before so I will need a lot more practice before I start creating very good macro images.
Rae

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