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Thanks very much, I might tweak it a bit as it was a bit redder then shown 
It's a tricky one - this was a real challenge for the camera, shooting directly at the setting sun with the foreground in near-darkness.
You used a minus 1/3 stop exposure compensation, I think I would be inclined to go for either a plus setting, in order to get more detail in the foreground; or a greater minus compensation, to get a silhouetted landscape and maximise the effect of the sun's rays.
You have lens flare, because of the way that light doesn't not pass 100% smoothly through the different elements of the lens. It doesn't create a strong pattern here, but it is not unattractive.
I have prepared a modification trying to give the effect of more exposure on the foreground, while retaining the sun's rays. But I think I shall now try the reverse, reduced exposure for silhouette, and possibly a strong, contrasty b&w.
I wonder if you tried any more shots a couple of minutes later, when the sun had gone down below the trees? The afterglow in the sky can be very attractive, and easier to expose for!
Moira
You used a minus 1/3 stop exposure compensation, I think I would be inclined to go for either a plus setting, in order to get more detail in the foreground; or a greater minus compensation, to get a silhouetted landscape and maximise the effect of the sun's rays.
You have lens flare, because of the way that light doesn't not pass 100% smoothly through the different elements of the lens. It doesn't create a strong pattern here, but it is not unattractive.
I have prepared a modification trying to give the effect of more exposure on the foreground, while retaining the sun's rays. But I think I shall now try the reverse, reduced exposure for silhouette, and possibly a strong, contrasty b&w.
I wonder if you tried any more shots a couple of minutes later, when the sun had gone down below the trees? The afterglow in the sky can be very attractive, and easier to expose for!
Moira
Sorry for typo, light doesn't pass 100% smoothly through the elements of the lens...
Two more mods added, silhouetted effect plus b&w.
Two more mods added, silhouetted effect plus b&w.
A nice scene, but the camera needs help.
You could use a graduated filter to hold back the intensity of the sky. OK, it'd cut across the trees but as they're in silhouette almost it's not going to be too big a deal.
Secondly, take two exposures and blend them together (tripod required to allow image rgister).
Thirdly, shoot RAW and create two different conversions and blend as above.
Fourthly, shoot RAW and carry out all the adjustments in Lightroom with the Graduated Filter and Adjustment Brush.
Having said all that my mod uses the jpg here and has turned out a decent result as your exposure has maintained detail in the shadow and bright areas.
I made separate adjustments to lighten the foreground and darken the sky.
This image is slightly soft, and that's due to your use of f/22 causing diffraction. f/11 would have been fine t that focl length and the fact the foreground isn't that close to the lens. That way you could have used ISO 200 which would have allowed more headroom to extract detail in the shadows without running into noise issues.
You could use a graduated filter to hold back the intensity of the sky. OK, it'd cut across the trees but as they're in silhouette almost it's not going to be too big a deal.
Secondly, take two exposures and blend them together (tripod required to allow image rgister).
Thirdly, shoot RAW and create two different conversions and blend as above.
Fourthly, shoot RAW and carry out all the adjustments in Lightroom with the Graduated Filter and Adjustment Brush.
Having said all that my mod uses the jpg here and has turned out a decent result as your exposure has maintained detail in the shadow and bright areas.
I made separate adjustments to lighten the foreground and darken the sky.
This image is slightly soft, and that's due to your use of f/22 causing diffraction. f/11 would have been fine t that focl length and the fact the foreground isn't that close to the lens. That way you could have used ISO 200 which would have allowed more headroom to extract detail in the shadows without running into noise issues.
Good mods, bringing out the beauty of the scene: you need to decide whether it's a shot of hte light, or of the ground. Either is fine, but they require different settings!
The EXIF data seems a bit random: shutter speed prioirty, high ISO... Were there specific reasons for the settings?
The EXIF data seems a bit random: shutter speed prioirty, high ISO... Were there specific reasons for the settings?
