'Portrait Photography' Competition - Win A Samyang 85mm F/1.4 FE II Lens!
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Hmmm...
I don't have a clear understanding of how you work this, but I find that touching the shutter button keeps a camera active. Please note that I use Sony mirrorless cameras, and i don't know for sure that this will work with a Canon.
I am pretty sure that you will get better results doing the fine focus with the camera, not a proxy (the other eyepiece). This will compensate for any inaccuracy in the way the T2 mount fits the microscope.
Two further thoughts - I can see some purple fringing: if Kern is the Swiss firm that used to make lenses for Bolex cine cameras, I'm surprised - their reputation was outstanding. But you can probably address that in Photoshop.
And there seems to be a little bit of flare here. It may be worth checking that the microscope lenses are spotlessly clean and free from haze or dirt.
I don't have a clear understanding of how you work this, but I find that touching the shutter button keeps a camera active. Please note that I use Sony mirrorless cameras, and i don't know for sure that this will work with a Canon.
I am pretty sure that you will get better results doing the fine focus with the camera, not a proxy (the other eyepiece). This will compensate for any inaccuracy in the way the T2 mount fits the microscope.
Two further thoughts - I can see some purple fringing: if Kern is the Swiss firm that used to make lenses for Bolex cine cameras, I'm surprised - their reputation was outstanding. But you can probably address that in Photoshop.
And there seems to be a little bit of flare here. It may be worth checking that the microscope lenses are spotlessly clean and free from haze or dirt.
Just touching the shutter button sould reactivate the Liveview. There should be a setting that adjusts the time Liveview is active though I guess it'll be buried in one of the menus. I wouldn't think the 7D is much different to my 5D3 in that respect.
Quote:I can see some purple fringing But you can probably address that in Photoshop
As I corrected in the last upload using the Chromatic Aberration tool. I used Affinity but Photoshop will have one too.
There does appear to be some movement blur too, looking at the streaks of the highlights, but without the full exif I'll just refer back to my comment on the previous upload.
So it must be mirror up if you're using Liveview so that removes one source of vibration. Self timer or remote release will remove another so I hope you're using either method.
Quote:I can see some purple fringing But you can probably address that in Photoshop
As I corrected in the last upload using the Chromatic Aberration tool. I used Affinity but Photoshop will have one too.
There does appear to be some movement blur too, looking at the streaks of the highlights, but without the full exif I'll just refer back to my comment on the previous upload.
So it must be mirror up if you're using Liveview so that removes one source of vibration. Self timer or remote release will remove another so I hope you're using either method.
You are choosing some difficult subjects for this technique.
There is evidence of movement this time and I am not really seeing a point of focus.
The purple fringing or chromic aberration is very obvious but can easily be removed as mentioned above.
Perhaps if you used a much simpler subject the focus issue would be easier to get your head round.
It's not particularly working for me as yet but I look forward to your progression.
There is evidence of movement this time and I am not really seeing a point of focus.
The purple fringing or chromic aberration is very obvious but can easily be removed as mentioned above.
Perhaps if you used a much simpler subject the focus issue would be easier to get your head round.
It's not particularly working for me as yet but I look forward to your progression.
Hi thanks for all the feed back. Dudler I'm not sure how to focus more with the camera because there is no lens. Fine adjustments have to be done with the microscope. I'll try mirror lock up on another subject.
The new bit hasn't arrived yet so I am still having to improvise kit wise. I had to use 2 little Manfrotto lights to help with this subject. The microscope lights were just not strong enough - I wonder if that is what caused the purple fringing.
I know the subject is difficult but the Anthers are the male part of the flower that produces the pollen grains and its that bit which is my interest. I will try and vary the subject. There are some leaves that have toothlike margins they might be worth a try as an experiment. I must sound very nerdy. I really must get out more and find a hobby-perhaps I should take up gardening and photography.
The new bit hasn't arrived yet so I am still having to improvise kit wise. I had to use 2 little Manfrotto lights to help with this subject. The microscope lights were just not strong enough - I wonder if that is what caused the purple fringing.
I know the subject is difficult but the Anthers are the male part of the flower that produces the pollen grains and its that bit which is my interest. I will try and vary the subject. There are some leaves that have toothlike margins they might be worth a try as an experiment. I must sound very nerdy. I really must get out more and find a hobby-perhaps I should take up gardening and photography.
Quote: I must sound very nerdy.
No, not really. It's something you have started and you are obviously interested in. Refining a technique takes time and effort, lots of time and effort
Ref the lighting, could you use a small desk lamp or similar, perhaps a cheapo angle poise that you can adjust the position ?
Focus... This is sounding hopeful.
If you are using live view, you have got the image on the screen on the camera. There's probably a facility to magnify the view (I don't use Canon, so I don't know where it is or how to use it), and if you do that you can focus by adjusting the microscope while watching the live view image very carefully.
Live view means that you are seeing the image exactly as it will be, in terms of sharpness, and this eliminates problems with small errors in alignment and positioning that a cheap adaptor may well give. The elimination of issues with this kind of thing is a major reason that mirrorless cameras tend to be better for focussing - but live view is a more primitive version of the same thing.
If you are using live view, you have got the image on the screen on the camera. There's probably a facility to magnify the view (I don't use Canon, so I don't know where it is or how to use it), and if you do that you can focus by adjusting the microscope while watching the live view image very carefully.
Live view means that you are seeing the image exactly as it will be, in terms of sharpness, and this eliminates problems with small errors in alignment and positioning that a cheap adaptor may well give. The elimination of issues with this kind of thing is a major reason that mirrorless cameras tend to be better for focussing - but live view is a more primitive version of the same thing.
Hi.
Please update the metadata of the file with full details if possible.
I have a hypothesis I can not prove here!
The reason for the "slight" movement is not a slow shutter speed or movement caused by pressing the shutter and moving the camera.
No monsieur, it is not the camera moving.
It is the flower. And the reason that the flower moves slightly is the result of an invisible actor who escaped your attention.
No police, or detective can find it, no judge or court can jail it. Its existence has no solid body monsiuer. And before you accuse my suspect I warn you, it is for your own interest to keep breathing. But when working very close to your subjects be aware that the volume of air you exhale can cause sufficient movement to very light objects.
Just hold your breath when firing the shutter and use a cable release or the camera's self timer for instances that span more than a few seconds.
I should take some holidays to Nile now...
pablophotographer
Please update the metadata of the file with full details if possible.
I have a hypothesis I can not prove here!
The reason for the "slight" movement is not a slow shutter speed or movement caused by pressing the shutter and moving the camera.
No monsieur, it is not the camera moving.
It is the flower. And the reason that the flower moves slightly is the result of an invisible actor who escaped your attention.
No police, or detective can find it, no judge or court can jail it. Its existence has no solid body monsiuer. And before you accuse my suspect I warn you, it is for your own interest to keep breathing. But when working very close to your subjects be aware that the volume of air you exhale can cause sufficient movement to very light objects.
Just hold your breath when firing the shutter and use a cable release or the camera's self timer for instances that span more than a few seconds.
I should take some holidays to Nile now...
pablophotographer
