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Nasturtium Anthers

By Squirrel  
Been playing with the 7D attached to the microscope.

I have uploaded as a mod an image of the centre of the flower showing the Anthers in situ. I removed 50% of the petals so that I could get a clearer view of the Anthers.

I have recently purchased a Kern OSE416 microscope to help me with my botanical studies. This was taken with my canon 7d attached to the microscope with a Canon EOS microscope kit.
The T2 adaptor fits onto the camera and then there is a 34mm microscope adaptor onto T2 which in turn then slips over the left eyepiece of the microscope.
The method is as follows looking through the right eyepiece with the microscope set to the 10x magnification I use the stand and focus dial to get the subject in focus. I then switch to 30x and using the focus dial adjust as needed. I then switch back to 10x and looking through the left eyepiece adjust the dioptre ring until it is in focus. That way the object will be in focus on any magnification setting.
At this point I can put the camera on the microscope. I have tried live view but because there is no lens on the camera I then have to adjust the microscope to get it correct and because it is a bit time consuming sometimes the live view switches off. I tried looking through the camera eye piece but because the camera is large it is a bit restrictive space wise because you have to take into consideration the other eyepiece on the scope.

Tags: Specialist and abstract Microscope Anthers microphotography

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dudler Plus
17 1.4k 1741 England
23 Oct 2020 3:19PM

I don't have a clear understanding of how you work this, but I find that touching the shutter button keeps a camera active. Please note that I use Sony mirrorless cameras, and i don't know for sure that this will work with a Canon.

I am pretty sure that you will get better results doing the fine focus with the camera, not a proxy (the other eyepiece). This will compensate for any inaccuracy in the way the T2 mount fits the microscope.

Two further thoughts - I can see some purple fringing: if Kern is the Swiss firm that used to make lenses for Bolex cine cameras, I'm surprised - their reputation was outstanding. But you can probably address that in Photoshop.

And there seems to be a little bit of flare here. It may be worth checking that the microscope lenses are spotlessly clean and free from haze or dirt.
dark_lord Plus
16 2.7k 710 England
23 Oct 2020 4:54PM
Just touching the shutter button sould reactivate the Liveview. There should be a setting that adjusts the time Liveview is active though I guess it'll be buried in one of the menus. I wouldn't think the 7D is much different to my 5D3 in that respect.

Quote:I can see some purple fringing But you can probably address that in Photoshop

As I corrected in the last upload using the Chromatic Aberration tool. I used Affinity but Photoshop will have one too.

There does appear to be some movement blur too, looking at the streaks of the highlights, but without the full exif I'll just refer back to my comment on the previous upload.

So it must be mirror up if you're using Liveview so that removes one source of vibration. Self timer or remote release will remove another so I hope you're using either method.
chase Plus
15 1.9k 482 England
23 Oct 2020 5:50PM
You are choosing some difficult subjects for this technique.
There is evidence of movement this time and I am not really seeing a point of focus.
The purple fringing or chromic aberration is very obvious but can easily be removed as mentioned above.

Perhaps if you used a much simpler subject the focus issue would be easier to get your head round.
It's not particularly working for me as yet but I look forward to your progression.
Squirrel 13 469 7 England
23 Oct 2020 7:36PM
Hi thanks for all the feed back. Dudler I'm not sure how to focus more with the camera because there is no lens. Fine adjustments have to be done with the microscope. I'll try mirror lock up on another subject.
The new bit hasn't arrived yet so I am still having to improvise kit wise. I had to use 2 little Manfrotto lights to help with this subject. The microscope lights were just not strong enough - I wonder if that is what caused the purple fringing.

I know the subject is difficult but the Anthers are the male part of the flower that produces the pollen grains and its that bit which is my interest. I will try and vary the subject. There are some leaves that have toothlike margins they might be worth a try as an experiment. I must sound very nerdy. I really must get out more and find a hobby-perhaps I should take up gardening and photography.GrinGrinGrin

chase Plus
15 1.9k 482 England
23 Oct 2020 7:40PM

Quote: I must sound very nerdy.

No, not really. It's something you have started and you are obviously interested in. Refining a technique takes time and effort, lots of time and effort Wink

Ref the lighting, could you use a small desk lamp or similar, perhaps a cheapo angle poise that you can adjust the position ?
Squirrel 13 469 7 England
23 Oct 2020 7:43PM
I've got one of those lights that you can clamp onto the edges of tables that might work. I'll give it a go. Thanks
dudler Plus
17 1.4k 1741 England
24 Oct 2020 8:47AM
Focus... This is sounding hopeful.

If you are using live view, you have got the image on the screen on the camera. There's probably a facility to magnify the view (I don't use Canon, so I don't know where it is or how to use it), and if you do that you can focus by adjusting the microscope while watching the live view image very carefully.

Live view means that you are seeing the image exactly as it will be, in terms of sharpness, and this eliminates problems with small errors in alignment and positioning that a cheap adaptor may well give. The elimination of issues with this kind of thing is a major reason that mirrorless cameras tend to be better for focussing - but live view is a more primitive version of the same thing.
Squirrel 13 469 7 England
24 Oct 2020 10:07AM
Thanks Dudler I'll give it a go. Watch this space......preferably with a microscopeGrinGrinGrin
pablophotographer 9 1.7k 390
25 Oct 2020 1:10AM

Please update the metadata of the file with full details if possible.

I have a hypothesis I can not prove here!
The reason for the "slight" movement is not a slow shutter speed or movement caused by pressing the shutter and moving the camera.

No monsieur, it is not the camera moving.

It is the flower. And the reason that the flower moves slightly is the result of an invisible actor who escaped your attention.
No police, or detective can find it, no judge or court can jail it. Its existence has no solid body monsiuer. And before you accuse my suspect I warn you, it is for your own interest to keep breathing. But when working very close to your subjects be aware that the volume of air you exhale can cause sufficient movement to very light objects.

Just hold your breath when firing the shutter and use a cable release or the camera's self timer for instances that span more than a few seconds.

I should take some holidays to Nile now...

Squirrel 13 469 7 England
25 Oct 2020 9:22AM
Hi pablophotographer .
Cable release or timer it is.

regards Jacq

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