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Surely a hood is better than a filter at keeping the front of the lens free of dust or rain? As for sending the lens back to Sigma for checking and cleaning every 3 or 4 months, that can surely only be for pros using the lens in adverse conditions every day?
Forum: Sigma Lenses
I've just read the BJP article about long telephoto lenses. It mentions that all the Nikon products use a meniscus protective element at the front to reduce damage to the optical components - just like the old Pentax ghostless filters of 40 years ago. If I'd just paid between 5k and 10k for a long lens, I'd be glad of this protective element.
Forum: General Photography Discussion
So very true. Phase One recently launched a new IQ3 100MP Achromatic Digital Back and one of the demonstrations was using it as a pinhole camera, in fact an adapted cardboard lens box ! Exactly. Fancy buying an expensive camera body and then putting pieces of glass with some weird coating on it.
I have been using Cokin P Series from quite sometime now and although they may not be the most expensive they certainly continue to produce the results. However unlike Lee Cokin have never brought out a Big Stopper. Are Cokin going to address this and hopefully put an affordable filter on the market. Regards Nathan Hi Nathan, Yes, Cokin introduced a range of ND Filters: https://www.eph...
Forum: Hoya, Cokin and Kenko Filters & Teleconverters
If Michael had been around a bit more, he may have experienced 'filter-flare'. It's a common, easily Googleable (I'm sure) however, Dude, modern lenses are very very difficult to scratch - I simply choose not to shoot through a pane of glass anymore.
Len, the exposed "front element" of a Nikon 600mm f4 is actually plain glass but curved just like the Pentax "ghostless" filters that I had in the late 1960s. It's fitted for precisely the same reason that I generally fit a UV filter: First things first - it is not good photographic practice to buy UV new except for BV&W silver based film - because they restrict the blue end of the spectrum...
Similarly, if you were to [insert some glib, cliched expression, intended to be a humorous alternative to the word "think", here], you may find that the "protection" is there for the benefit of the renter rather than the rentee. ;) If I was renting the lens then first thing I'd do is remove the pointless filter that certainly won't do anything to improve the L lens quality. YMMV. BTW....
Hi Angela, I've done exactly the same move as you have this year, going from the FZ-18 to the 650D.......are you stalking me? :-) My main is aviation photography, my longest lens at the moment is the 55-250mm, so I have been playing with cropping, and it does seem to work sometimes!!! How are your earring pics going?? John
Forum: Hoya, Cokin and Kenko Filters & Teleconverters
Not in the same league but I have the 120-400 sigma and it has a good lens hood but within a week I'd bought a skylight for it and it really takes away the doubt about protection against dust/rain spots etc Just taken delivery of a polariser for it this week too so am going to test it out today (bought it specifically to deal with reflections rather than punching tones) but as lawbert says I...
Edited to say: Just out of curiosity, would leaving on your UV filter and just attaching the polarising filter really make a big difference? Any additional layer of glass in front of the lens inevitably leads to some degradation of image quality and the more layers, the more degradation. So, wherever possible, I prefer only to use one filter at a time. The other serious disadvantage o...
Don't know if uv filters degrade performance or not (I don't use 'em) but if folk took more care when handling equipment, they'd not have any need for additional glass in front of their pride and joy. Simple rules are: Never change lenses without the body's neckstrap...er...round your neck? If that's not possible (can't think why), just sit down on the floor. Always pay attention when stuffing...
For me it adds and does not subtract - otherwise I wouldn't use it. :)
Not everyone agrees with the idea of not using a protective filter. For digital you can use UV, Proteting filter, 1b etc if you shoot in RAW. If you shoot digital use a UV or plain glass. Always buy best quality you can afford and be prepared to remove it to reduce flare when shooting close to the sun. Better to my mind as you can't take a photo through a lens cap! Many photograph...
Forum: Beginner Photographers
"The Canon Regular (clear) is £42 at SpeedGraphic " Even cheaper at Camera King via Amazon.co.uk. "reduced image quality varying from slight to significant depending on the filter" I was unable to detect any IQ degradation when using a Canon clear filter on a 200mm micro lens, though I am sure that given the right lighting, there might be flare and loss of contrast. I suspect IQ issue...
Cokin has designed a new filter system that was optimised for wide-angle lenses and created with long exposure landscape photography in mind.
Tamron announces three close-focusing fixed focal length prime lenses for Sony E-mount full-frame mirrorless cameras, with an f/2.8 aperture.
HOYA's new filter range is designed to repel dust and the filters in the range are meant to be easier to clean. We put a couple to the test to see if they really do have repelling powers.
Take your camera into a hot climate and you're bound to encounter problems. This collection of invaluable tips from Jack Jackson will help you avoid potential disasters whether in a dust storm in a Mediterranean holiday resort or on an African Safari.
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