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MentorRon 2 102 Canada
14 Jun 2020 5:02PM
Love all kinds of windmills. I'd be interested to know why you chose those exposure settings. I've never used over ISO200 in brifght daylight in 50 years, so I'm curious as to the reasoning. Thanks a lot. Of course I don't have an X-T20 either Wink Just my thrift store F100fd...
P.S.: Just went through a bit of your portfolio and conclude you may ALWAYS use ISO500 ??? I entered the 35mm world using a hand held photometer before they were built in to cameras, and went by the instruction guides that came with the film before that: ASA100 - 1/50th sec - f/16 for sunlight.
15 Jun 2020 6:35AM

Quote:Love all kinds of windmills. I'd be interested to know why you chose those exposure settings. I've never used over ISO200 in brifght daylight in 50 years, so I'm curious as to the reasoning. Thanks a lot. Of course I don't have an X-T20 either Wink Just my thrift store F100fd...
P.S.: Just went through a bit of your portfolio and conclude you may ALWAYS use ISO500 ??? I entered the 35mm world using a hand held photometer before they were built in to cameras, and went by the instruction guides that came with the film before that: ASA100 - 1/50th sec - f/16 for sunlight.




Iím not sure what you mean ? ISO 500 is a normal setting for daylight photography. I have used ISO 200 or 100 for night time photography what is recommended ????
MentorRon 2 102 Canada
15 Jun 2020 4:18PM
From my 60+ years taking photos, that unless you "fix" the at ISO500 , the camera will usually choose somewhere in the area of ISO100-200 in daylight. I can see using higher ISOs and speeds to capture action or lower to create blur. I know with today's better CMOS and larger sensors you can get images with less digital artifacts at 500. So I was just not sure why you selected that specific ISO for so many daylight photos. 1.: To get higher shutter speeds; or 2.: It was the highest ISO you could use without discerning any artifacts on your computer display.
For night time, the camera will normally choose much lower ISOs and usually warn you to steady the camera on a support of some kind. As I ALWAYS handhold (no tripod or beanbag) I try to find a supporting surface: wall, post, etc. (I like to travel light: camera, extra battery, lens cleaning cloth and brush.)
P.S.: Was just looking at your portfolio again, trying to understand your choices. I see often you set Aperture Priority at f/11, but I "get that" for depth of field as these are landscapes.
MentorRon 2 102 Canada
15 Jun 2020 4:42PM
Just so I can sleep tonight Wink
I read your Profile and see you are a "birder". That might explain your usual settings that overlap into your landscapes.
I am guessing using a higher ISO would provide more depth of field AND higher shutter speeds when using a long telephoto to capture birds at a distance. I no longer go beyond 400mm myself (except when playing tourist) and am not a birder, so exactly how much depth of field I get is normally not an issue. I am more into wide angle shots than teles (mostly landscapes), and recently got a 2nd hand 10-20mm Sigma. Maybe I've solved it, for my comprehension anyway. Wink Smile

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