This extraordinary character is a member of the Akha hill tribe, one of six hill tribes that have settled around Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai in Northern Thailand. She is a street vendor in Bangkok and we have known her for several years. The nearest transliteration of her name is ‘Apraeuw’, although some of our Thai friends affectionately call her ‘Oi’. The image above was captured in our favourite little open-air bar near our hotel, which is on Apraeuw's patch for selling her handicrafts and it is here that we usually see her. On this occasion, she was sharing a joke and a smile with Tricia and I caught her completely unawares. Whenever we appear Apraeuw greets us both with a hug and a kiss, to the incredulity of passers-by and the people eating and drinking in the bar! We regard her as a friend and are very proud to do so.
Aprauew is a diminutive lady, standing around 4 feet three inches in height, yet she connects with people of all nationalities through her charm, that amazing smile and her vibrant personality. Along with many of her tribal colleagues, Apraeuw sells Akha handicrafts in an area of the city popular with tourists. The Akha have their own language and we know that Apraeuw speaks very little Thai or English, yet through a combination of smiling, pidgin and pointing, she barters with visitors to sell her wares. It would be wonderful to converse with her - she would have some amazing tales to tell.
The Akha are believed to have originated in south West China and Tibet. Over centuries the Akha migrated to Laos, Myanmar (Burma) and northern Thailand. Each Akha village is characterised by carved wooden gates, which they believe are presided over by their guardian spirits. They live in bamboo houses built on low stilts with steeply pitched roofs, with a large entrance opening on to a square living area with a stove at the back.
Akha men make crossbows, musical instruments, baskets and other items of wood, bamboo and rattan. The women spin home-grown cotton into thread with a hand spindle and then weave it on a foot-treadle loom. The cloth is dyed, usually with indigo, and sewn into clothing for the family. As it is difficult to eke out a living from agriculture alone, many Akha make and sell handicrafts to boost their income. They sell hats, bags, belts, silver necklaces and bracelets, carved wooden objects, etc., in ‘tourist’ areas of Thailand, including Bangkok and some coastal resorts.
Traditionally the women wear wide leggings, a short black skirt with a white beaded bag similar to a sporran and a loose fitting black jacket with heavily embroidered cuffs and lapels. The ornate black caps such as Aprauew is wearing, are decorated with items such as beads, shells and silver coins.
My sincere thanks to all of you who passed on messages re Tricia’s mum; these were very much appreciated. The good news is that she will be leaving hospital tomorrow and going home. We have a home care package in place for her and now we begin the task of ensuring that, despite the onset of Alzheimer’s, she will be able to lead an independent life for as long as possible. We spent most of the Easter period in Taunton so that we could visit her regularly and also to prepare for her homecoming by cleaning her flat, buying in essentials and so on. There’s a lot of paperwork to deal with on her behalf, so that will keep us occupied for a while.
Tags: Woman
Travel
General
Bangkok
Candid
Thailand
Portraits and people
Hilltribe
Ahka
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