When visiting Thailand, Tricia and I always spend quite a bit of time in Bangkok. One of our regular days out is when we take the Express Boat along the Chao Praya river all the way to Nonthaburi, some 30 stops along. We always board at pier 1 and the boat is very full. Locals disembark all along the route, but the main points for visitors to get off are the stops for Wat Po, The Grand Palace and the backpacker haven of Khao San Road. By the time we reach Nonthaburi after about 50 minutes, only a handful of people get off and we are often the only occidentals.
Nonthaburi is a typical Thai working town and unlike Bangkok is not used to seeing many tourists, so we are often seen as figures of curiosity, although we are always treated in a very friendly and welcoming manner. We always head for the busy and fascinating daily market, where the locals shop for food, clothing, etc. The sights, sounds and smells of the bustling market hold a great appeal for us and we join in as far as our still limited knowledge of the Thai language will allow. Although we don’t buy a huge number of items there, we have never returned empty-handed and have always come away richer for the experience of Nonthaburi and its people.
In a side street at the edge of the market is an open air rustic café / bar, where we usually take a break. On our last visit we ordered local beer, sat on low stools at a table on the edge of the road and soaked in the atmosphere. The other customers included a Buddhist monk and several other interesting characters. We could see plenty of activity at nearby stalls and lots of people going to and fro. The lady pictured above caught my eye as she sold her flowers. As is customary at Thai markets, haggling was going on at a furious pace at all sorts of stalls. The lady above sold some flowers to a few people, then sat and waited for her next customer. I watched spellbound as a Thai family stopped at her stall, engaged in some heavy haggling but declined to buy as they could obviously not reach an agreement. They walked on, then stopped at another nearby flower stall and began to haggle once again. The lady turned and glared at them with a thin-lipped expression that could curdle milk! However, her countenance was totally different a couple of minutes later when she made a substantial sale to another local group; at this point she beamed from ear to ear! I had hoped to catch that expression as well in order to illustrate the contrast, but a motor cyclist passed in front of me at the crucial time and the opportunity was lost forever.
Well, perhaps not lost forever – we will be back in Thailand at the end of the year and will almost certainly be taking a trip or two to Nonthaburi. Who knows, we might see her again and with any luck this time I’ll catch her beautiful smile.
Tags: Woman
Travel
Market
General
Candid
Thailand
Nonthaburi
Portraits and people
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