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Will try modifying it and uploading a Mod here. By "dodged" you mean dodging (darkening) as in Photoshop right? I don't have photoshop so I'm not familiar yet with dodge/burn much.
A great idea and I like all the foreground against the main object.
Elaine
Elaine
Thanks Matt I got them confused. 
Now I understand. Later will modify accordingly.
Now I understand. Later will modify accordingly.
It is called 'dodging' from the D&P days when we photographers used to have different cardboard shapes cut out and a long thin wire handle attached.
So when we wanted to 'dodge' an area because it was too dark, we would wave the cardboard shape which suited best between the light source and the photographic paper to prevent too much light landing upon the area we wanted to 'dodge'. Naturally we always kept the shape moving to avoid sharp edges and the wire was thin enough to avoid lightening underneath it.
'Burning' was similar except the cardboard had holes in it so that we could direct more light to the aread which required 'burning'.
The PS tools do the same thing in effect so the names remain.
Nothing to do with your uplaod but I just thought you might find it of interest.
Frank
So when we wanted to 'dodge' an area because it was too dark, we would wave the cardboard shape which suited best between the light source and the photographic paper to prevent too much light landing upon the area we wanted to 'dodge'. Naturally we always kept the shape moving to avoid sharp edges and the wire was thin enough to avoid lightening underneath it.
'Burning' was similar except the cardboard had holes in it so that we could direct more light to the aread which required 'burning'.
The PS tools do the same thing in effect so the names remain.
Nothing to do with your uplaod but I just thought you might find it of interest.
Frank
Thanks Frank, that was indeed very informative.
You ned to have a lot of practice with spot metering Alistair before you can trust it. It often will lead you astray, so always check the resulting image, and then shoot again with the appropriate adjustments. The Boots have been underexposed, and I assume this is where you used the spot. Shooting into the sky in general means that if the subject has a lot of sky behind it, either use + exposure compensation, or fill flash. In this image you have a beautifully exposed sky, which wasnt the plan!
F/16 is an area you dont need to use, - f/11 is a small as you need to you. Lower than f/11 will tend to start softening the subject, rather than the other way around.
The format is a little long also, so crop a little. Ive uploaded a mod, and used the shadow tool in Photoshop to bring out the bootsn which are also very soft, so I dont know where the point of focus was, - certailnly not on the boouts. Use only one of the nine(?) focus points, and place that on the subject to focus.
The shutter speed in marginal, though the IS should make up for it. I do believe though that the camera focused on infinity, not the boots.
What software are you sing?
heres a useful link:
https://www.ephotozine.com/article/here-s-a-rundown-of-ten-top-free-photo-editors--17091
Regards
Willie
F/16 is an area you dont need to use, - f/11 is a small as you need to you. Lower than f/11 will tend to start softening the subject, rather than the other way around.
The format is a little long also, so crop a little. Ive uploaded a mod, and used the shadow tool in Photoshop to bring out the bootsn which are also very soft, so I dont know where the point of focus was, - certailnly not on the boouts. Use only one of the nine(?) focus points, and place that on the subject to focus.
The shutter speed in marginal, though the IS should make up for it. I do believe though that the camera focused on infinity, not the boots.
What software are you sing?
heres a useful link:
https://www.ephotozine.com/article/here-s-a-rundown-of-ten-top-free-photo-editors--17091
Regards
Willie
Thanks Willie for all the interesting feedback - now to answer your questions.
As regards spot-metering though, was I right in choosing that method of metering for such a composition? Practice will help but if I'm choosing to go spot when I don't have to, I'd appreciate feedback to open my eyes on the subject! Thanks. Will keep in mind the exposure compensation tip too - I only thought I should use it with high/low key images, though I guess this could qualify as slightly high-key given the bright sky and the lightly-colour shoes. Hindsight, of course, is a good teacher...
Aperture f/16 comment - agreed - I think I lost a lot of detail as a result of that, diffraction right? I was using Tv-mode so I didn't choose the aperture myself, guess that means I need to start using Full-Manual mode to get the best out of certain situations.
As regards focusing, you're certainly right - checked the RAW and noticed that the focus was on the centre, that's the only cross-type focus point I have and in difficult shots I think the camera tends to pick focus from the middle more easily then. Will need to keep that in mind too.
Finally, I adjust shutter speed on the 1/focal length guideline most of the time, and rarely go lower. I have to trust IS a bit more I guess. I should gain a couple f-stops of stabilisation with the lens I had, but I admit I don't trust it. Will try to adjust my approach in that department too...
As regards editing, I carry 90% of all editing in Canon's Digital Photo Professional that came with the camera and an old version of Paint Shop Pro. Mulling getting the latest one now as Photoshop is way too pricey.
As regards spot-metering though, was I right in choosing that method of metering for such a composition? Practice will help but if I'm choosing to go spot when I don't have to, I'd appreciate feedback to open my eyes on the subject! Thanks. Will keep in mind the exposure compensation tip too - I only thought I should use it with high/low key images, though I guess this could qualify as slightly high-key given the bright sky and the lightly-colour shoes. Hindsight, of course, is a good teacher...
Aperture f/16 comment - agreed - I think I lost a lot of detail as a result of that, diffraction right? I was using Tv-mode so I didn't choose the aperture myself, guess that means I need to start using Full-Manual mode to get the best out of certain situations.
As regards focusing, you're certainly right - checked the RAW and noticed that the focus was on the centre, that's the only cross-type focus point I have and in difficult shots I think the camera tends to pick focus from the middle more easily then. Will need to keep that in mind too.
Finally, I adjust shutter speed on the 1/focal length guideline most of the time, and rarely go lower. I have to trust IS a bit more I guess. I should gain a couple f-stops of stabilisation with the lens I had, but I admit I don't trust it. Will try to adjust my approach in that department too...
As regards editing, I carry 90% of all editing in Canon's Digital Photo Professional that came with the camera and an old version of Paint Shop Pro. Mulling getting the latest one now as Photoshop is way too pricey.
*Another version uploaded*
Almost all processing software has dodging and burning tools. Most images just need density and contrast correction. Dodge and burn, then sharppen as required.
V1 is very soft ant thats not aperture, it looks like movement. V2 is sharp but too bright. The idea and composition is OK, but you need to look at technique. Spot metering should rarely, if ever, be used on auto. You place the spot on the area you want to meter from, preferably a colour or r tone which equates to a density of 18% grey. Half press the shutter release and note the exposure reading.
Dial those readings into the camera on manual for desired exposure.
Paul
V1 is very soft ant thats not aperture, it looks like movement. V2 is sharp but too bright. The idea and composition is OK, but you need to look at technique. Spot metering should rarely, if ever, be used on auto. You place the spot on the area you want to meter from, preferably a colour or r tone which equates to a density of 18% grey. Half press the shutter release and note the exposure reading.
Dial those readings into the camera on manual for desired exposure.
Paul
Paul - as regards spot-metering, I work in another way using Canon's AE lock (that * button). I position the center spot on the area where I want to ensure good exposure, half-press, press the * button, and the exposure is locked. With the shutter still halfway pressed, I re-compose and shoot, and the exposure is based on the initial reading not recalculated at shooting time.
As regards your comment "should rarely, if ever, be used on auto", excuse my ignorance but I didn't get that. I'm still very new to all this and some terms don't come to me easily. Could you kindly explain a bit more? Thanks.
Finally, as regards v1 and your blur comment, the AF point was on infinity not on the subject, and the camera's diffraction limit is around f/11, after which diffraction sets in. I think that's two factors to take into consideration. Plus, I wouldn't be surprised that indeed SOME blurring occurred, as I was squatting while taking that to get the sky as background. So it's likely a combination of aperture, diffraction and shake from my end! A good cocktail of bad technique in other words.
Need. More. Practice...
As regards your comment "should rarely, if ever, be used on auto", excuse my ignorance but I didn't get that. I'm still very new to all this and some terms don't come to me easily. Could you kindly explain a bit more? Thanks.
Finally, as regards v1 and your blur comment, the AF point was on infinity not on the subject, and the camera's diffraction limit is around f/11, after which diffraction sets in. I think that's two factors to take into consideration. Plus, I wouldn't be surprised that indeed SOME blurring occurred, as I was squatting while taking that to get the sky as background. So it's likely a combination of aperture, diffraction and shake from my end! A good cocktail of bad technique in other words.
Need. More. Practice...
Your spot metering technique is OK as you know providing you pick the correct tone. You are locking your spot reading. Many photographers assume spot is the most accurate method, as it is if correctly used. They set spot metering and an automatic exposure mode without realising that the camera will set auto exposure readings for wherever the spot happens to be. Thus very inaccurate, usually.
Aperture related diffraction blurring depends on lens quality, design and other effects as I'm sure you know.
Paul
Aperture related diffraction blurring depends on lens quality, design and other effects as I'm sure you know.
Paul
In my case, I'm sure I hit the diffraction limit of the lens with an f/16. It starts around f/11 on my lens...it's an entry level zoom lens that I got to open some options for me, I don't see me using it beyond my early learning stages (which is now). At a later stage, I'll definitely save up for a better, preferably L-Series zoom (or prime?) lens.
As regards the comment you made about auto-exposure readings - I still didn't understand you - are you referring to exposure in terms of the +/- button? That is, with spot-metering, I should dial in a +/- in exposure compensation mode as well?
As regards the comment you made about auto-exposure readings - I still didn't understand you - are you referring to exposure in terms of the +/- button? That is, with spot-metering, I should dial in a +/- in exposure compensation mode as well?
PS: Paul, I never shoot in Automatic mode, if that's what you were referring to - handheld, I use Shutter Priority most of the time and use the 1/focal length guide, and when on a stable surface, I tend to go for aperture priority. I doubt I ever used Auto when outdoors actually.
