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Nick Nacks

By AM74
Recent visited Petra- one of the new seven wonders of the world. Loved the sheer thrill of climbing rocks, as well as the fascinating history of the place. There are lots of stalls within, run by Bedoins who live within the rock city, selling pretty ornaments etc.

Took this shot using F11, but am uploading two other shallow DoF versions- one focussing on the wind chime and the second one on the scarf. Would love to know which one you all think is the better version.
Have also decided to upload unedited shots, as it is hit and miss with me in Lr or snapseed etc. Until I know how to do processing properly, will let you experts do the editing where necessary or do very little.

Tags: Rocks Petra Ornaments Landscape and travel

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mrswoolybill Plus
13 2.3k 2266 United Kingdom
1 Jan 2018 1:12PM
I rather thought we would see Petra. Well done for finding something different to the standard views. I remember those stall, I bought my mother a little oil lamp at one of them.

Well done too for experimenting with different settings. The first version works best for me, differential focus distinguishing the souvenirs from the background. In the second version the wind chime tends to merge with the background.

It's underexposed - what this did not need was a minus exposure compensation . You were photographing into the sky, which can trick the camera into underexposing; so a small plus compensation would be the standard advice here.

There's a magenta cast. Can you remember how you set White balance? I prefer to stick to Auto, shoot Raw files, and adjust later.

Compositionally, I would like a bit more space at the top, to join up the metal rail. But that can be contrived... Wink
1 Jan 2018 2:50PM
Thank you Moira! Love your mod and as before, great that you explain how you do it. I will have a go myself in Lr based on how you did it.
The minus exposure was a mistake- left from the previous photo setting! Will have to make a note to self to always check exposure meter as it has ruined a few photo opportunities!
I changed WB to daylight from auto recently, based on advice here. I always shoot RAW now and understood that WB is an easy thing to change post processing.
Your comment re composition is also noted. Frustrating as I got the metal rail in the original shot but messed it up somehow along the way!
banehawi Plus
16 2.3k 4163 Canada
1 Jan 2018 3:17PM
As Moira points out, all have the same very basic problem; underexposure, and strange white balance (colour tone)

I see that the exposure was an error, and its not hard to make that mistake either; get into the practice of ALWAYS checking you shot in the LCD in Histogram mode, - that shows you immediately if the exposure has a problem, and take 3 seconds!

I uploaded two mods. They needed sharpening, p remember than when you shoot RAW, no sharpening is applied by the camera, so you need to add some in post processing to jpeg.


dudler Plus
17 1.3k 1698 England
1 Jan 2018 3:36PM
Hi again, Annie!

When I first had an autoexposure camera, it took me a coupel of years to get used to turning hte +/- dial the right way, and remeber to reset it after use. A harder lesson when you are using film...

Usually, it looks more natural if the nearest subject is sharp. A soft foreground, unless it is a fringe, framing the subject, tends to block the view, so I prefer the sharp wind chime...
1 Jan 2018 6:03PM
Thank you all again.
The exposure was obviously an error on my part, but re the strange white balance, I wonder what it is that causing it? It was a bright sunny day and the WB was set at daylight so I don't understand why it appears weird..

Quote:remember than when you shoot RAW, no sharpening is applied by the camera, so you need to add some in post processing to jpeg.

I did not know that so really useful!

Quote:When I first had an autoexposure camera, it took me a coupel of years to get used to turning hte +/- dial the right way, and remeber to reset it after use. A harder lesson when you are using film...

That is reassuring to know! Smile
paulbroad 13 131 1289 United Kingdom
1 Jan 2018 6:08PM
As above. You have superb gear, but you really should go back to basics and ensure focus and exposure are correct. It is not the gear that makes the photograph. Always reset things like exposure compensation back to zero after any sequence of shots or you will continue to make mistakes.

Similarly, I would reset WB to AWB after each sequence or when putting the camera away. How do you know what the next subject will be and under what lighting? By all means assess conditions and set 'correct' WB compensation for the shoot, but then reset.

You may well understand shade, daylight, tungsten and so on, but do you know the actual colour output of any light source, particularly electric lighting - can be anything from very red, green, blue and so on!

I put my cameras away set to 'P' mode, Auto ISO 1600, single shot auto focus and AWB. Then, if a sudden shot manifests itself and I grab the camera and shoot I have a pretty good bet it will be close to correct. If time allows, I then evaluate the situation and carry out any adjustments.

pamelajean Plus
14 1.4k 2157 United Kingdom
1 Jan 2018 8:01PM

Quote:Would love to know which one you all think is the better version

Your lead image is good, Annie, but I can't help wanting to see more at the bottom. The wind chime, and especiallty the scarf, seem to be cut short.

The first of your two versions is my favourite, with the wind chime in focus. The chime is the most attractive of your two items.
Brightening the image is obviously the important thing, bringing out all the pretty detail in the elephants.

I hope you can see why we are tending to prefer this version, but well done for taking more than one image of the same subject.

dudler Plus
17 1.3k 1698 England
2 Jan 2018 7:10AM
An important (and potentially confusing) point is that every photographer has a different approach. All of them work, but mixing them may not.

So Paul's standard settings are a good way of getting an instant, newspaper-style shot under almost every set of circumstnaces - and, if it's not a news picture, Paul will reset everything to suit the subject and conditions. He also (I know from previous comments and from correspondence) shoots RAW and JPG, usually using only the JPG files, and only shooting JPG under some circumstances. Moira shoots only RAW - and then processes every picture she posts or uses. I always shoot both, usually use JPG, and process from RAW when i see advantage in it.

We want to help you find your own route and photographic persona, which may involve takign bits from each of us and seeing if they work... But there's no guarantee that mixes will work, and even when we describe things in detail, there is a risk that we may miss out a small but significant step. For instance, I often use both the built-in sepia and black-and-white JPG settings that my camera provides, and I find htem to be excellent. However, this only applies when I am using my Sony bodies - it seems not to work as well with Olympus and Lumix hardware, and files from these require more processing than the Sony files. So what Moira does with Nikon kit and Paul does with Fuji may not apply directly to your Canon gear - though it will be a starting point for playing and finding out!
mrswoolybill Plus
13 2.3k 2266 United Kingdom
2 Jan 2018 9:02AM
John makes a good point. I think the basic principle is to know your kit and to be prepared. That does include checking for left-over settings! (High ISO and exposure compensation settings are the most frequent culprits).

A certain amount of familiarity, habit is also involved. We come to work in ways that we are comfortable with and can adjust by a sort of reflex reaction.

Paul used P mode, I have never used it except when I have nudged the dial accidentally, and then I panic because of the unexpected settings that appear! John swears by aperture priority, which is the standard advice to photographers. I automatically go to aperture priority with my close-focusing 40mm lens.

But with my standard lens or anything longer I leave the camera set to shutter speed priority, usually around 1/160 second, because most of the time I am photographing people, activities. That's when the difference between 1/80 and 1/160 second will be much more significant so far as I am concerned than the difference between F5.6 and F8! (That's heresy, I could be burnt at the stake for it... )

I know I'll be using a fairly wide angle which will increase depth of field. So I keep an eye on aperture, adjust ISO as appropriate, but freezing the action is the top priority.

I generally stick to Auto White balance because the Raw file can be adjusted in post-processing and from my experience customised white balance that goes wrong is far harder to get right than auto! I photograph regularly in a hall where very yellow artificial light comes up against cold light from big north-facing windows. Sometimes b&w solves a lot of problems... Wink

I'm delighted to see that you are using Raw. It's a steep learning curve, it's important to take time over checking out all the sliders, what they do. One suggestion - try clicking on the Auto adjust, see if it works, look carefully at what it has done, then see how you can twiddle with the sliders to improve it.

You're enjoying learning, that's the main thing!
paulbroad 13 131 1289 United Kingdom
2 Jan 2018 9:14AM
A lot of really good and interesting stuff here. You can see how we all differ. I shot over 4500 frames at the Scampton air show in September. All JPG - imagine the card space needed with RAW and the processing hours, no weeks, even with batch processing as the light continually changed!

As John says, study all our comments and pick out the gems. Develop your own technique.


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