Login or Join Now

Upload your photos, chat, win prizes and much more

Remember Me

Can't Access your Account?

New to ePHOTOzine? Join ePHOTOzine for free!

Join Now

Join ePHOTOzine, the friendliest photography community.

Upload photos, chat with photographers, win prizes and much more for free!

Get the new ON1 Photo 10 and Save $100 Today. Use Code: GetPhoto10 View Offer

Connect to User

23/06/2012 - 1:04 PM

St Ives surfer

St Ives surferA few points to consider:

1) You have used shutter priority and set it at 1/320 sec. For fast action it is usually better to use in the region of 1/1000 to freeze the shot (unless you want to make use of motion blur)

2) It looks as though the focus point hasn't picked up on the surfer. You can see the water droplets are quite sharp but the surfer isn't. If you weren't using AF-C (continuous focus) then this is the setting you would need to continually track the motion of the surfer.

3) The surfer is surfing out of the frame. The general consensus is that is better to have room for the surfer (car, animal, athlete etc) to move into.

Hope this helps.


03/06/2012 - 11:04 AM

Trains acoming

Trains acomingExcellent subject matter, although thankfully you tagged it as fun.

Initially i was extremely concerned / disturbed regarding the content matter. Quite alarming if it was the West Coast main line!!

Simple and effective. Good shoot.

I would maybe try and move the chaps feet away from the edge though


13/03/2012 - 6:26 PM


GlenarmAnother picturesque photo from Billy.

I agree with Nick above reference getting all of the church in the picture.

One minor point Sir. I find the over bright red and blue car/van to be a touch distracting. It may be over saturated or over sharpened. It certainly stands out - as does that patch of bright green grass. May just be my failing eyes though Sad
09/03/2012 - 5:01 PM

Fanad head lighthouse

Fanad head lighthouseWell, having looked through your portfolio Billy i would be really pleased with some of the images you have produced.

Regarding exposure compensation, please forgive me if i get confused and muddled but here goes.

On your camera there is a +/- button - usually by the shutter release. If you hold this down and rotate your dial you will either add or reduce the exposure.

If you have a bright scene and use multi segment / matrix metering then the camera may make your subject underexposed as it will try to render the bright areas less bright (ie to 18% grey tones). In order to overcome this then dial in positive exposure compensation which will lengthen your shutter speed or increase your aperture to let in more light thus giving you more exposure.

A typical example is a snowy scene. Without positive exposure compensation the snow will not look brilliant white. More a dull grey.

If it's dodging and burning you're not familiar with then Frank and Martin really are very good with their modifications and would be able to explain far better than I.

As i mentioned earlier, keep up the good work and keep up with the uploads as i enjoy looking at your photos.


23/02/2012 - 7:34 PM

Typical Blackpool Weather

Typical Blackpool WeatherI think this has the makings of an awesome image. I love the rails leading into the water and then the curve leading round to the tower.
However, i think it would look more dramatic if it were brighter and with a little more saturation. Sadly, i am not in a position to be able to supply mods to the standard of Willie and Frank. I'm sure they will be along shortly.
28/08/2011 - 8:42 PM


QB RUnYou've managed to isolate the image really well. Well done.

The next step is to make sure you use a faster shutter speed to freeze the action. Try 1/800 or 1/1000.

With the action froze and in focus this would have been one to be proud of.

Well done, look forward to some more.
23/08/2011 - 6:31 PM

Breaking through the line

Breaking through the lineI love the challenge of this type of photography and every weekend for the last 6 months i have been taking photos of my lad in his Junior team or my local non league football team in the Northern Premier. Real football that is - with a round ball Tongue

Over the course of the last 6 months i have found the following generally suits me best.

1) In order to freeze the action i set my camera on shutter speed priority and look for 1/1000s. If i go much lower than 1/800 i generally get a lot of motion blur

2) As the guys above have noted i switch the autofocus to continuous focus point. As yet i have found little difference between the servo settings on AF-A or AF-C. Therefore i will usually leave it on AF-A - automatic

3) For the ISO i will switch this to automatic as it is one thing less to worry about when trying to get a shot.

4) I generally find the best images are when i am able to catch two players doing battle for the ball - preferably running towards me

5) Usually i leave the metering on area. However, recently i have been getting better exposure results using centre weighted - particularly when the sky is bright

6) The images which are less pleasing are when i do a "general" shot and capture too many players without any main subject

7) I find shooting in low light extremely difficult but the guys on here are helping me heaps now i have Elements 9 to improve some images

I am finding with more practice i am getting better and now i know what to look for i am getting more keepers from less shots. Initially i was coming back with 400 shots but now i'm down to the 100 mark.

Keep up the good work. It's frustrating but really rewarding when you get that great image you long for.

PS I would love a 300mm lens.........
16/07/2011 - 11:24 PM


ListeningNice image. Only issue for me is the black lead from the headphones keeps drawing my attention away from what is otherwise a fantastic shot.