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22/10/2011 - 5:09 PM

the beautiful cruel sea

the beautiful cruel seaNot easy to get a good shot under these conditions William. Lots of spray in the air makes it especially challenging, as it tends to reduce the contrast of the image, which is what we see here. Also, - the dull sky doesnt help as it gives you a large area thats essentially empty. A threatening dark sky would have been great, but it wasnt there at the time. The power of the sea and the waves crashing on the rocks come though load and clear though.

I have loaded a mod where Ive increased contrast and sharpness to try to give it a little more punch.

Hope this is helpful,


21/10/2011 - 12:26 AM

I'm watching you

I'm watching youWelcome to EPZ Bob.

This is a good shot to load as an opportunity to learn. Its a decent shot overall, however, its somewhat underexposed, and the cat is not quite sharp enough.

I dont know how proficient you are with post processing software, - let us know so we can be more helpful in feedback. Im going to talk from a Photoshop perspective, in addition to some of your cameras features.

First how can I tell its underexposed? You can tell this yourself, if, when you take the shot, you view it, and use the Histogram view on your LCD. You will notice that the graph does not extend all the way to the right or bright side (left is blacks); this would indicate underexposure, and then you could have used the exposure compensation function to take the shot again, with perhaps a +2/3 compensation. Again check the image and the Histogram, and you will see that you have moved the graph further right.

In Photoshop, using the Levels too also shows the histogram, and with this tool, you can drag the small triangle underneath the right end of the horizontal line, and drag it to the left to meet where the graph ends, This will brighten the image.

The camera seems to me to have focused on the material the cat is lying on rather than the cats eye, - the best focal point. I can tell this because when I sharpen the image, the background responds very quickl;y to sharpening, whereas the cats face requires much more sharpening to get it to respond. This is likely due to the fact that you may use multiple focus points, and you can actually select only one, place it on the cats eye, and take your shot. Theres some information on selecting focus points in the manual.

Ive loaded a mod with all of the above, and also cropped it to an 8 X 10 format, showing mainly cat, and less background. To see the mod, scroll up to the modifications tab, slect it, and click on the mod to enlarge it.

I hope you find this helpful, and enjoy the journey with the camera and the EPZ community.


21/10/2011 - 12:06 AM

Rocky Mountain Elk (stag)

Rocky Mountain Elk  (stag)The pose and light is good. The position in the meadow of flowers is lovely. The image though seems to have a great deal of noise, - more than I would expect at ISO 125, - so perhaps theres some oversharpening also.

Ive loaded a mod with Noise Ninja used to reduce noise, and also cropped to move the Elk off centre and provide more opne space on the left to look into, - it improves the overall composition.

Hope this helps,


20/10/2011 - 11:54 PM

Joyce Almeida

Joyce AlmeidaVery nice pose and lighting. Same comments as above, and in addition I would suggest a crop to place her head a little lower and more to the right, as in the mod, whi8ch also has the hand a little darker. Theres a nice catchlight in one eye that can be brightened to match the other also.


Red Squirrel (Sciurus vulgaris)Levels which increase contrast will always increase saturation Sylvia, and how the cam is set up also may tend to give saturated colours. What oversat can do is cause bleed, - the individual pixel edges bleed colour across their boundaries into nearby pixels.

Its not an arbitrary guess, you can actually check for oversaturation in Photoshop using the Curves adjustment. When its open, theres a drop down that defaults to RGB. You can look at each channel individually, and see which one, or ones extend beyond the right. You need to be a bit careful tough as if theres a large significantly overexposed area in the shot, it will drive all colours over the edge. So keep that in mind. To reduce a colour, grab the top right point and pull it down straight a little.

This method eliminates monitor differences, and is not subjective, - you can see it.


19/10/2011 - 1:28 AM

Her look

Her lookHello Sergey. This is a nice and I also really like the Red Squirrels in your portfolio.

Phil has provided good advice and a nice mod already. I would add that you might consider flipping the shot horizontally; adding a little sharpening (in addition to exposure as Phil mentioned); and reducing the Red a little by using colour balance, and sliding the Cyan/Red slider to Cyan = 12, and the Yellow/Blue slider to Yellow = 3 for a better skin tone.

In the mod, Ive cropped in a similar way to Phil, - flipped the image, and also lightened her eyes, and added two small catchlights. There are catch lights there already but they are a little dull.

There is no exif data loaded so I dont know anything about the shot settings, or I may have been able to provide better feedback.


15/10/2011 - 3:35 PM

the hellfire club

the hellfire clubHi Richard,

I spent many days around this place when I was in my teens, - always intending to stay until dark to see evil apparitions, but never had the nerve.

This is a view from the back if I remember.

Its a building worthy of a menacing treatment, as youve tried here

A few comments/suggestions.

Your aperture at f/29 was unnecessarily small for this scene. I would suggest no more than f/16, simply because your depth would be the same, but your apparent sharpness would be much better.

Theres one dust spot, either on the lens or the sensor just above the left edge of the roof; theres some evidence of cloning repeats in the clouds which form a vertical line right above the roof, about 2/3 in from the left, - easily remedied, but is obvious as vertical lines in clouds dont happen.

The toning for me, - a personal opinion is yoo yellow, and may look better with a less dense treatment.

Signature can be smaller, - its good that its in the border, just a little large.

Try a larger light border with a smaller black, - gives it more space.

Ive loaded a mod with these changes made, - slightly lightened the foreground, reduced the colour and toned differently.

Hope this is helpful,


14/10/2011 - 5:34 PM


alanA nice shot. I would be inclined to have more space on the left rather than right, - and not as much. The long white frame, doesnt work for me, - it places the subject further from a third which can make for a better composition.

14/10/2011 - 5:08 PM

Final Approach

Final ApproachThis is very good. You can either reduce the light with a smaller aperture, using the same exposure time; or a shorter time with the same aperture; or take a shot with NO TRAILS, - no plane, and get the runway right, the a longer exposure shot with the camera in the same place, (using a shoter exposure for the bright light of course) - getting the trails and combine the two; or use an ND filter (not a grad) to reduce brightness. It will reduce all brightness, but it might be worth playing with if you happen to have one.

14/10/2011 - 4:28 PM

one look

one lookGreat pose Dan, and a good shot with a few problems.

The noise is quite high, - you didnt load any shot details, so I assume it was a high ISO shot. Reduction of noise is very effective when used on this image.

The exposure on fer face is a little low, might be caused by shading from the hat, but not sure. I you used your flash as a fill flash it may have lifted the exposure enough to lighten, and given you better catch lights in the eyes, and better eye detail.

I like the catch light in her eye, though it looks better a little brighter.

You dont have to include all of the hat, as the subject is the girl is the subject, and cropping to place her eyes on a third improves the composition.

All changes done in the mod.


12/10/2011 - 4:51 PM

Aphrodite rock

Aphrodite rockWhat method are you using to convert to mono Martin?

The shot is a little grey, and benefits with a higher contrast. The composition places the main rock in the upper third, but is much better placed to sit on the third line, which means lowering it, and cropping some foreground. This will also give you a printable 8 X 10 format.

The wide lens has caused a vignette, most visible top left, and its a good idea for a mono I think to even out the sky, even though its white.

Ive loaded a mod to show the results,


11/10/2011 - 9:48 PM

White Fawn

White FawnUnfortunately the camera has focused on the grass in front of the Fawn, rendering the grass sharp, and the Fawn soft and out of focus. I dont know if the camera uses multiple focus points, - if you can get it to focus on the Fawn, not the grass, - it may well take a number of attempts to get it right, but it would be a very nice result.

09/10/2011 - 3:57 PM

Mothercap and millstone

Mothercap and millstoneHi Phil, - a good example of a really bad day!

The shot is underexposed quite a bit though, and I see you had tried a positive exposure comp of +1/3, however +1 would have been better I think. Check the histogram after the shot, - it takes a few seconds, and is well worth the time, as you would have seen this right away.

With the image adjusted as in the mod, - its also a little soft. Ive sharpened it in the mod, and I also notice that its softer further away from the lens, close to the horizon, so I wonder where you focused. The general guise for a small aperture landscape shot is to focus on a point about 1/3 into the scene, which provides best front to back sharpness.

remember to check your re sized image for sharpness before you upload, and apply some more if needed. This is a step missed by many, and its important to make sure you shot looks as sharp as your original.

In the mod, - Ive also cropped to a 10 X 8 format, and added contrast.

Hope this helps,


08/10/2011 - 9:56 PM

Girl in Venice 2

Girl in Venice 2Its a nice effort. You daughter however is underexposed as you shot against the sky, and using either fill flash or positive exposure compensation you have a much better shot. When the exposure is sorted out, she also has the nice warm glow you see on the buildings

The pose is framed too far to the right and the top to be really spot on composition, and this is easily rectified with some cropping, and adding some height to place her on a third.

The shot is a little soft overall, and gets gradually softer closer to her head, so some selective sharpening also improves the overall shot.

Ive loaded a mod to show what I mean,

Hope this is helpful,


Welby Church - Parish Of Melton Mowbray  AFTER CORRECTIONHello Tad.

Ive looked at both shots, and this is essentially the same as the first, with some brightening of the trees.

So I will start from the first shot, and answer your questions along the way.

First observation, and its the same for both versions is that the shot is underexposed. Bren mentioned this in the last shot, that you can tell by looking at the histogram graph. It doesnt extend to the right, which indicates its underexposed. So this is not simply a subjective viewing of the image on the screen, it is measured by the distribution of light from the cameras sensor.

You can easily resolve this in a few ways. I dont know what software you have, but if it Photoshop Elelements, open levels, and drag the right slider to the left until it meets the graph. Other versions has different and more effective ways to do this.

Why is it underexposed? I see you used manual exposure, - so I cant tell how you came up with your settings. If you had used the cameras meter and adjusted setting until it looked right on the meter, you would have needed to take the large amount of sky into your calculations and added about +2/3 to compensate for the sky, - otherwise the shot will be underexposed. hats the why.

Why use f/22? You can use f/22, however, it has some advantages, and disadvantages. The first, and only advantage it has is it provide a very deep depth of field, - and area of "apparent" sharpness from the camera to the horizon.

The serious disadvantage it has is how optical systems behave with small apertures. Beyond approx f/11, the level of sharpness of your image will steadily decrease beyond its optimal, which is found around f/5.6 - f/8. Small apertures below f/11 are almost exclusively used for deep landscape shots, and even then, f/16 is usually as far as you need to go. You shot is not a landscape shot, as you are only concerned with the depth of the church and the trees behind, so a larger aperture would have provided a sharper image, with a faster shutter speed. In addition, - focal length also plays a role, so at 25mm, the depth of field you will achieve at f/8 is well beyond what you need for this shot.

I will attach a reference link you will find helpful.

So thats the answer.

I have used your original shot, and loaded 2 mods. Mod1 has the exposure corrected, and the saturation slightly reduced; the second has the verticals corrected, which can be done if desired. In my opinion, it better to leave the original, ans straightening a tilted image which has been shot from anywhere but straight on will cause some problems. The converging verticals are caused by lens distortion which is normal for a 24mm lens, and with this shot, I think it enhances the appearance.

heres the link:


Hope this helps,


06/10/2011 - 4:16 PM

Mist on the canal

Mist on the canalIts a very nice image, well composed. I find for me it needs to be a little lighter, to capture that nice glow of the mist, and Ive uploaded a mod to show what I mean.

I recovered some shadow detail using the shadow tool in CS4 to reduce contrast, and the applied a small amount of the diffuse glow distortion filter to enhance the glow. Finally, and slight sharpen and increase in saturation to bring out yellows.


04/10/2011 - 8:07 PM

Dunluce Castle, Co. Antrim

Dunluce Castle, Co. AntrimHello John.

Ive looked through your portfolio to find the original that you worked with, but couldnt find it. I was interested in what you though needed to be improved.

This type of shot is outside you normal focus, and its a nice image overall. there are a few areas visible by the left of the castle where theres evidence of some work you had been doing.

I find that the shot is light on contrast, - in that the blackest point in the shot is not completely black, so perhaps you were intending to light the castle detail a little (a guess)

I brought black back to where it needed to be, which darkened the overall image, and gave it a lot more contrast with deeper colours. The presence of the very bright sun, though covered by light cloud can be addressed by placing some more cloud over it by copy and paste process and adjust opacity.

I personally prefer the castle to appear darker, - its more of a silhouette. the final point I would address is sharpness, and Ive added a little to the mod. Always check your re sized image for sharpness before you upload t, as file compression can make it look soft.


04/10/2011 - 7:44 PM

St.Charles Bridge

St.Charles BridgeIts a really nice shot Martin, and I love this point of view, - not one Ive seen before.

Very little to critique other than to remember as per yeaterdays comment to compensate when there a lot of bright shy in the image by uing some positibe exposure compensation, - this would brighten the lower and mid section quite nicely.

Thats what Ive done in the mod, with a little space cropped from the top to place the cty closer to a third.

Hope that great weather keeps up for you.


03/10/2011 - 10:21 PM

Having a rest

Having a restIts a really good shot Mario. Youve improved so much. It cant be faulted, I agree, but it can be improved, and Ive suggested some things in the mod, some easy, some difficult, some possible at the time of composing in the camera.

First I would suggest that the choice of spot metering has resulted in a slightly underexposed shot. This is not at all unusual in spot metering, - having to adjust about 1/3 either way, - check the histogram to be sure.

The composition places him in the middle, and it does work her, but its worth zoomin out a little andplacing him lower and more to the right.

All done in the mod, and as always, since I dont like the heavy dark framesm Ive changed it, - just personal preference.

Well done


03/10/2011 - 5:12 PM


MikeGood portrait. The Canon tends to favour red in skin tones. Try this with the colour balance adjustment:

Move the Cyan slider towards Cyan, away from Red to about 12; Move the Yellow slider towards Yellow away from Blue to about 3, and compare the two.