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  • The Nx300 would be a great investment for any wedding photographer.
  • Any basic point and shoot should be more than enough....
  • 28mm, 50mm, 85mm.

    All 1.8g's.
  • The nikon 28mm 1.8G is an awesome focal length and fantastically sharp.

    There's a very good value, great condition one in the classifieds at the moment. Grin
  • A few years ago (before the 16-35 was released) second hand 17-35's were well in excess of 1300. I nearly bought one.

    Since the 16-35 was released the second hand value of the 17-35 has plummeted to about the same as the 16-35.

    That probably tells you a lot.

    I would favour a modern lens design over a 20yr plus lens design, given how much lens technology has evolved.

    If you were buying new you could buy a 16-35 AND a 20mm 1.8G for about the cost of a 17-35

  • Quote:The tests I rely on indicate negligible or nil increase at 100 ISO, and a small increase (also in dynamic range) to about 1600 ISO.
    The general consensus is AF and shutter vibration are a little better.
    Video, buffer and the rear screen are better.
    The launch price was steep but it is down to 2,250 at Park (I consider a reliable source) and 2,340 at Mifsuds compared to 1,899 for a new D800.
    Ignoring what you loose on selling a D800 the 13.0% current price different seems reasonable to me for the improvements.
    2,200 might be the UK tax paid bench mark by the end of this month.
    I was not on the fence at the 2,699 launch price. I might be at 2,200 which is a street price reduction of 18%. I do not forecast usefully lower prices in the next 18 months.

    Presumably you mean D800e for 2200.?

    It looks like the cheapest D810 Uk price is more like 2565

    Which I agree is a lot more than the D800 (or D750 for that matter)
  • The talkphotography.com classifieds are an exceptionally good way of buying / selling camera stuff.

    Would never use eBay to sell after my mate sold a lens and had it returned a few weeks later after the buyer dropped it, claimed it was faulty and then won a full refund via eBay.
  • They are an excellent company...
  • You can set the LCD screen to preview what the image will look like with the current exposure settings. Or it can be set with a nice bright preview image, irrespective of what exposure settings you've selected.

    With the former you will get a very dark preview if you've set the camera to underexpose the seen and a very bright preview if you've set it to overexposed. I set mine like this.
  • Looks like the sRAW option gives you a 12 bit file almost identicle in size to the full sized compressed 12 bit file. What waste of a potentially really useful feature.
  • The Panasonic 20mm would be my choice. It's tiny and the image quality wide open is exceptional. Easily on a par with a lot of my much more expensive nikon full frame glass.

    The 14mm is nice, and is even smaller , but I prefer the focal length of the 20mm on the street.
  • Yes. Very Powerful Book.
  • Kate McCann's book is pretty tough stuff and well worth reading.
  • There's a great value 25mm 1.4 in the classifieds at the moment ... Wink
  • The thing I liked about the 17mm 1.8 focus was you could set it to focus at a set distance manually using the markings on the lens, say 2 meters. Then put it back into autofocus. Then when you're out on the streets autofocusing and something comes along suddenly just by pulling the collar the camera will instantly focus at whatever distance you set.

    Why you can't allocate a few function buttons on the various cameras to do this is something I've always wondered.

    The m43 fast prime options are remarkable given how new the mount is. It puts the Nikon/Canon crop ranges to shame.
  • I shot the 20mm 1.7 II along side the 17mm 1.8 for about two weeks on my GX7 - I could have kept either. I ended up keeping the panasonic - it was noticeably better wide open and quite abit smaller. The only thing I preferred about the Olympus was the manual focus clutch ring which was pretty useful for zone focusing on the streets.

  • Quote:

    If so, then it will still import the jpeg but just not add it to the catalog (it isn't visible in LR) - the jpeg is treated as a sidecar file and will move to wherever you move raw file.


    Thanks hadn't realised that.

    It took me awhile to realise that the histogram shown on the camera is generated from the embedded JPEG which is affected by the picture style setting on he camera - it might be quite different to the histogram on the actual RAW file (depending on what picture style setting is selected).
  • If you shoot RAW + JPEG then you can set lightroom up to import just the RAW file, or both files. The default on my LR was to only import the RAW file and ignore the JPEG file.

    (Not to be confused with the embedded JPEG preview that is in all RAW files)
  • Sigma 35mm 1.4
  • They're awesome. Used them for years
  • BBC iplayer "8) what do artists do all day. Tom Wood."

    Awesome documentary. Really interesting. Thanks for highlighting it...
  • Try a cheap 50mm f1.8, or a 35mm f1.8.

    Both are much faster than what you've got, and much faster (and cheaper) than a 70-200 2.8.
  • A polarising filter will make the blue sky darker In camera, which might help the post processing
  • I've got the 16-35 and the 28 - if I was shooting environmental portraiture I'd always pick the 28mm.
  • The 28mm 1.8 is awesome. Very sharp and a lightweight lens. Even wide open. Much like all the 1.8G's.
  • I would link to his website but when I've done so previously it kept getting removed.

  • Quote:Sorry to hijack the thread but i was looking to step down fro 72 to 67 nd filters would this be ok

    You'd have to test it to find out if there's any vignetting. It worked fine on the sigma 20mm with a 82-77mm step down ring ...
  • Definitely get 77mm filters and use a step up/down ring.

    I used a sigma 20mm prime on FX for some time (with an 82mm thread) and used a 82-77mm step down ring - surprisingly it never seemed to vignette. 77mm is definitely the way to go

  • Quote: I have always believed in using false price techniques to gain work.

    That's going into the all time Lucian/Realestate/User Removed classics quotes. Along with:

    "I send another photographer for cheap packages if i am double booked and the prices work out more expensive than meets the eye because i put limitations on what the client gets..."

    "My business model is about doing as many weddings as possible and producing what the clients deems to be acceptable work in as fast a time as possible."

    And my personal favorite:
    "I am getting red eye in peoples eyes with my 5d mk2 and cant work out why and cant see a red eye reduction setting in the cameras menu. I am doing a wedding tomorrow so it would be good if someone could advise me on this."

  • Quote:
    4. I was somewhat shocked at the poor quality of the work of one of the other photographers.

    Epic. Very entertaining.