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Activity : Photo Comments


Thanks for looking at my portfolio. I hope you find some images you like.
I read all your comments and look through the gsallery, but because of time I may only vote rather than comment.
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  • Such Fun.

    Nice shots Jukka.

    Looks like you have a thriving club.
    • 4 May 2016 9:53PM
  • bluebells

    Beautifully done.
    And they're proper bluebells too, not the nasty Spanish ones Smile
    • 4 May 2016 9:42PM
  • The Promenade

    Mono for me.
    • 4 May 2016 9:41PM
  • yummy

    A cracking shot, a pity i can't give it an award Smile
    • 4 May 2016 9:27PM
  • Moskva5

    I wish you well shooting film. A different discipline but nothing difficult - we all used to shoot this way!

    There are three areas for improvement here.

    Firstly, to extract shadow detail. You can lift the shadows in software or better still give more exposure or put some fill-in light into them at the time of capture. You may need a combination of these techniques.

    Secondly, the depth of field needs to be increased, so the whole camera is sharp. It's a technical instrument, so we expect to see it sharp all over. f/11 should be fine. However, using a wide aperture so that just one part is sharp, for example the knurled rings, and leaving the rest unsharp is a 'creative' approach that can work well. You need to be in close and/or need to use a really wide aperture such as f/2. A 50 mm lens can be found quite cheaply if you want to explore that idea.
    Having some areas sharp and others a little soft is not as pleasing to see as either all sharp or having one sharp area and the rest quite diffuse.

    Thirdly, a little more space around the subject and no clipping of the edges. Again it's a case of one or the other. If you want to crop in, make a positive decision. Otherwise it can look like careless composition. Think of it like a tackle in football - a half attempt doesn't (rarely) works well.

    Spotless working environments will help too.

    That all said, this is 'nearly there'. You only have a few tweaks to make to get the best out of the subject.

    • 4 May 2016 8:36PM
  • nervous champ

    Welcome from me too.

    Great eye contact and well composed peeking through the leaves.

    A good image that benefits from the suggested tweaks.

    • 4 May 2016 8:13PM
  • Goldfinch

    The flash is subtle and has resulted in some nice catchlights in the eyes.

    I remember years ago in the days of film that it was a popular technique to use fill in flash for bird photography. But using 50, 64 or 100 speed film called out for some help.
    Still, it's a useful technique even now.
    • 4 May 2016 7:54PM
  • A storyboard of windows

    Welcome from me too.

    John has set out the case for understanding the basics perfectly.
    I think an analogy would be chefs. They need to know the basics of cooking and their ingredients so that they can produce thier creations.

    Just a note on lens distortion.
    This is easily corrected insoftware. Lightroom for example in its Develop module has a palette for selecting the lens used. Barrel and pincushion distortion as well as vignetting can be corrected for.
    If you haven't got or don't want to pay for Lightroom, you'll have Canon's Digital Photo Professional on the disc that came with your camera which will allow those corrections also.

    Some Canon cameras can be uploaded with lens correction data. This is automatically applied to the image. I'm not sure if the 6D can do this but as it's a recent camera i suspect it can. That might sound too technical for you but someone else reading this may find that helpful.

    • 4 May 2016 7:45PM
  • Tulip Drops

    I'll have to catch it first, Lilian Grin
    • 4 May 2016 6:59PM
  • turners wares

    A super variety of mushrooms on display. I have some but not quite like these.
    • 3 May 2016 9:43PM
  • You Going to Move?

    Strong image.
    I must however admit I'm thinking slowly cooked in red wine...
    • 3 May 2016 9:38PM

    The flowers make a nice curve through the frame.

    A smaller aperture would ensure more depth of field to make more of the flowers in the zone of sharpness but the background details will be more prominent. It's a double edged sword. Take a few images at different apertures and select the best at your leisure back on the computer. That'll be a useful learning exercise too, so that when you come across a similar situation later you'll know what settings are likely to work best.

    Top contrasty lighting makes for a confusing looking image. You can either shoot when the light is more diffuse, if there is cloud about for example, or use a diffuser or cast a shadow across the flowers so there's no direct light on them.
    Some techniques to try.

    • 3 May 2016 8:21PM
  • Why not?

    This week's special offer. Buy three ripe peppers and get an unripe one free Grin

    Very nicely shot, soft windowlight is great (my last upload was taken in such conditions).
    • 3 May 2016 8:11PM
  • Mouth Watering

    They were Smile
    • 3 May 2016 8:02PM
  • Bird of Prey Sparrow Hawk at York City

    I agree with john in that recent work is best.

    However, if you find some older work that you'd like help with, especially if re-visiting a subject or technique you haven't used for a while, and you say why you'd like help than that's fine.
    In this case, just a tweak in post processing works well. Indeed, if you find an image that you aren't sure how best to process then that's ok too. You may have taken many image but now want to make the most of them and aren't proficient in post processing to work out what to do. Apologies if you are, but that may be the reason some upload to the Critique Gallery. So long as that's stated in the description so we know what to provide in the way of feedback.

    Having said that, this is a super shot, even more so for a grab shot!
    This would do well in the main Gallery (especially the tweaked versions), there are a lot of bird photographers out there.

    • 3 May 2016 8:01PM
  • Still life

    Still life's are best shot with standard to short telephoto lenses to avoid the distortion problems. Unless you're after an effect, and that'll depend on the subject. Something like this subject here benefits from the absence of distortion, whereas with wacky and offbeat stuff it may work. That's not a hard and fast rule, of course, intended to be a helpful guide.

    Thnis does look dark here, not helped by the white surround. Clicking on the image to see it full size gives a black surround and then it looks ok, though to be honest I'd still lighten it a bit. Presentation is a consideration.

    My first mod lightens the image using Curves.

    My second mod reduces the yellow and orange, still attractive but not as warm.

    My third mod highlights some ripples in the background and foreground which look odd. They are annoying once noticed, as the lighting picks them out. They may have been part of that background you used, but if they draw attention to themselves and away from the subject you need to avoid them by making changes to viewpoint, lighting or positioning of the subject.

    • 3 May 2016 7:49PM
  • Bug Macro

    That's pretty darn good using the 'wrong' gear. It's certainly not obvious.

    It's lit very well, in terms of no harsh shadows which you can get with flash. Your mod with less saturation also reveal more detail in those petals. Oversaturation does mask detail so is something to be aware of especially with strong colours.

    A strong composition with an un-fussy background, no improvement I can suggest.

    There may be occasions when your setup may not give as good a result as proper macro gear but you'll give it a good run for its money. You'll need to be spot on with technique and it'll be more cumbersome.
    But until you get or can afford a macro lens (if you decide you want to go down that route, if you want to get into macro) I think this'll do nicely.
    As Paul says, what'll you get with the right gear Smile

    • 2 May 2016 8:25PM
  • Lovely Lucy

    Welcome from me too.

    Well if John can't suggest any improvements you've done very well indeed!

    • 2 May 2016 7:48PM
  • A Good Year

    Deanston Distillery, near Callendar Smile

    In fact i's not actually a cellar, it's several floors up in what was a mill.
    • 2 May 2016 7:44PM
  • Droplets on leaf

    Thank you for the feedback Peter, it's nice when posters engage in conversation with us.

    John's mod does it for me, removing that distraction in the background.
    This is the sort of thing you need to look out for when composing your image. You could crop in closer but you'd lose that curve in the leaf which is quite attractive and certainly more interesting than having the leaf straight across the frame!

    It's worth inspecting all areas of the frame, the edges, the foreground and background as you compose the image. Adjust your position as necessary.
    I take it this is your garden so remove any distracting items and do some 'gardening'. You wouldn't (shouldn't) be able do this if it were in the wild, or if in someone else's garden unless you ask their permission.

    A good choice of aperture. Any smaller and the background would become more defined, taking attention away from the water drops. Given they're in a straight line and in the same plane, I'd experiment with going wider. I was taking pictures of some tulips yesterday with water droplets on them, using f/5.


    PS That's excellent cloning John, you can't see any joins so saying you're not as good on post processing as some doesn't hold water, in this shot at least!
    • 2 May 2016 7:16PM
  • Newcastle Riverside & Bridges

    Good sharpness at full aperture. The background in the centre is a touch softer, i'm not sure if that's due to the wide aperture or to compression for upload. Either way, despite depth of field still being huge at full aperture on such a lens, I'd stop down to f/5.6. Save the wider aperture for when you really need it.

    It's not only the sky but the bright water that's contributed to overexposure. Pointing the camera down to avoid a lot of sky would help, then use exposure lock and recompose. Or apply the settings manually.

    I like the viewpoint and the fisheye works well here.
    But as you admit, the light wasn't the best, which is sod's law when you've travelled somewhere. Note the spot and try for better lighting next time. Some landscapers visit a spot umpteen times before they get what they want.
    On the other hand, there is some texture in the sky so you could go dramatic mono. I'll try a mod using the Nik software (which is free!).

    • 2 May 2016 6:55PM
  • Cactus bloom

    This is good.

    Cropping out the shadow makes for a bolder image, all the interest is on the flowers.

    It's a nice touch to get the inset in flight, it adds that extra element, and is the sort of detail that may well clinch a sale compared to a shot of just the flowers. Having said that, you'd need to offer images with and without the insect so customers can choose.

    • 2 May 2016 6:44PM
  • Grainger Market Newcastle Upon Tyne

    Welcome from me too.

    Simpler borders are best, especially with a strong image that can stand on its own.
    I appreciate that you were trying to give the look of a print in a frame. It's a presentation that can be effective, but again simpler as in Willie's mod.
    Full marks for giving it a go, though.

    It's a good image and you made good use of the fisheye.

    • 2 May 2016 6:40PM
  • Gulls.

    A god set, Jukka. I like the purposeful stride in V4. The group of three birds in V3, nice one Grin
    • 2 May 2016 1:29PM
  • Leo.

    A super portrait, excellent use of that wide aperture.
    • 2 May 2016 1:26PM
  • Sunset.

    Very nice indeed.
    • 2 May 2016 1:25PM
  • The Pose

    A panoramic format, wide but not very tall.

    A lovely sharp capture. I'm guessing you used Servo AF rather than wait for the bird to fly into a preset focus. Both are good techniques, but you've got the result here however you chose to do it.

    The exposure has let you down as there are overexposed areas on the bird.
    The background looks as though it should be darker (most foliage is quite a bit darker than a mid-tone). In cases like this set the exposure manually. Metering off the grass is a good approximation to an average tone which all camera meters base their calculations on.

    The background can be seen as a distraction, but it does set the scene. Sometimes you have little choice, I know, it depends on how much contextual information you want to include in a shot.
    For example, if this bird were in an urban environment, if you shot against a plain blue sky it would look little different to shots taken almost anywhere. Including some buildings, albeit they'd likely be quite out of focus, may not look 'clean' would give a sense of location.

    It's worth taking a look at this guy's portfolio.

    • 1 May 2016 8:54PM
  • The butler's room

    A decent shot, nicely composed. It's all down to exposure and post processing to bring the best out in the scene.

    Flicking between your original and John's mod is akin to switching that lamp on and off!

    You don't lose much detail from the outside by increasing exposure or adjusting as in the mod, so it's best to expose for the darker areas and not worry much about the bright area outside. You can always darken an image later to provide some mood and mystery than to try and lighten with the risk of too much noise (though your camera is pretty capable in that respect).

    • 1 May 2016 8:41PM
  • Tony Peacock

    V2 for me.
    • 1 May 2016 7:41PM
  • Dandelion

    Beautifully done.

    They're coming into their own now and I haven't got a good shot myself of them despite they're being so widespread.
    • 1 May 2016 7:39PM