Take your photography to the next level and beyond...

  • NEWS

Why not join for free today?

Join for Free

Your total photography experience starts here

Exclusive 25% off Affinity Photo: Professional photo editing with no subscription!

Activity : Photo Comments


Welcome to my EPZ portfolio, please feel free to have a browse and send me a message if you have any questions.
...Read More
  • Little biker

    This is a great image with a different perspective, taking the shot from down below has really worked well. The exposure etc. don't seem too bad and the colours work well. But you have to address the elephant in the photograph and that is that the boys head looks like it is perched onto the headlight. I would take Paul's advice:

    Quote:I might have offset the head to the right of the lamp and tilted the whole thing a bit toad even more strength but that would be a very different image.

    You could have even gotten him to hang off a little making it look like he was cornering, I think that this would have made the image much stronger. A great effort though and well done with the concept.
    • 25 Aug 2016 12:09PM


    You've only received basic feedback for this image and I would suspect that people don't want to be forthcoming with their lesser nice comments. The image is never going to be a competition winner but as far as a record of that particular aircraft it is absolutely fine.

    There several issues with the image outside of it being a record shot and the main one is the blue of the sky. I live in the country of the blue sky and it is never this blue, it could have been caused by a polarising filter or just oversaturation in post processing I guess. The other issue is that the aircraft looks quite static in the air and could have been photo shopped in.

    The best way to shoot aircraft especially if they are propeller driven is to capture them with a slightly slower shutter speed and allow the propellers to blur. This gives a feeling that the plane is flying and makes the shot dynamic especially if viewed coming towards you.

    Hope this helps

    • 23 Nov 2014 2:26AM
  • Fly Fishing for sea trout in the Falkland Islands

    I can relate to this image because I have visited the Falklands 5 times and when I fished at Estancia I couldn't get past the Mullet.

    The image is tilted to the left and as said above, once noticed it is annoying. One thing about reflections, a bit like the other rules in photography, it really is only a guideline and that is that reflections really shouldn't be as strong as the thing they are reflecting. I would just reduce the saturation in the water a little.

    Otherwise a great shot and brings back memories for me.

    • 23 Nov 2014 2:12AM
  • Storm over Digley


    I think that the whole image is tilted not lens distortion or just the shed. The reason I think this is because even the rays of light look as if they are titled also. The horizon may not be dead level but you rarely see this much landscape at an angle like this. I would suggest that you try just tweaking it to the right a couple of degrees. The MOD by Dingus addresses it nicely.

    With regards to the shed, it doesn't need to be entirely in the shot if it was there would be a bright sliver of landscape down its left and it would be a distraction. Whether the grass and the building should be brighter is entirely the choice of you, the creator of the image. Personally I think it allows the viewer to move on to the rays of light and the landscape which is what the image is about. If the shed and grass were brighter we might not get past them to the rest of the image.

    Hope this helps

    • 23 Nov 2014 2:04AM
  • Young French Bulldog

    Quote:Some of you have said you have made modifications but I don't know how I go about viewing these.

    Top of this page in the modifications tab right above your original description Grin

    • 23 Nov 2014 1:47AM
  • Cosmos and forget-me-knot flowers

    Whilst I like your image quite a lot, given it is for a competition, I think you might need to reshoot this. Your focus is good and the parts of the flower that need to be sharp are sharp and I like the 1, 2 & 3 of the flowers which is also good. However, the light is too harsh, the angle that you shot this at needs to be adjusted and the flowers are too central which shows too much of the other plants and makes the image very busy.

    If it were me, I would use a diffuser to soften the light or take the shot in much more even light (cloud covering the sun) which will stop the highlights and the shadows. I would take this shot in portrait mode which suits the flow of the flowers better and get in a little closer and have them offset on the right thirds line.

    Also, you need to ensure there are no other stem, stalks, flowers etc. closer to the lens like the one in this shot to the right of the flowers. Perhaps a little step top the left and the flowers would be better presented. You can always just hold the other things out of the way if there are any because you'll have a spare hand because you are using a tripod, you are using a tripod and remote shutter release aren't you? If not just tie them out of the way or get a friend to help.

    With regards to camera settings I would set the camera to 'A' aperture priority and use something around f/5.6 depending how close you are so that you can blur out the background a little more. Use a single point of focus and set it to somewhere around the centre of the middle flower to ensure that the depth of field extends far enough forward as well as backward.

    Hope this helps
    • 23 Nov 2014 1:31AM
  • Remember!

    Ah the good old 'Out of Bounds' technique but perhaps not quite the right image to test it on. There is a very good tutorial on this very technique by Gavin Hoey somewhere here on EPZ.

    Here you go: https://www.ephotozine.com/photography-videos/video/out-of-bounds-effect-in-photoshop-1955

    My attempt is HERE HERE anks

    • 17 Jul 2013 5:58AM
  • Leaning Tower, Vertical Cathedral

    So am I right in assuming that from the comments above, you take the lens off your camera and hold it in front at an angle instead of it being attached to get some sort of tilt and shift result or am I totally wrong?

    I have never heard of free lensing but, if I am right then stick to the perspective tool in Photoshop or invest in a tilt and shift lens if these are the results you getting.

    Hot Update - I looked it up on Professor Google and I'm bang on. I would suggest that free lensing was invented by a sales executive from a camera company to get sales targets up on new cameras rather than for an actual realistic results. If you want my two penneth, frame your shot, zoom out to create more space around the subject and then go wild with the perspective tool. Photoshop is relatively cheap compared to replacing broken lenses and damaged sensors.

    One thing that does puzzle me is that if you use tilt and shift or lensing to get the perspective right on buildings etc. why on earth would you test it on the Leaning Tower of Pisa that will only ever be straight when it falls over, which it will?


    • 17 Jul 2013 5:48AM
  • Brisbane at Night

    Looking at the camera model and the exposure time of 2 seconds I would suspect that you didn't use a tripod at all and that you've tried to handhold this. Was this taken from the Ferris wheel or are you further along by the footbridge? From memory that is the footbridge but I'm not sure, am I right? As Willie has said you need to take shots like this at dusk and not really at night time. However, you're never going to get a sharp shot without a tripod or a firm support such as a bean bag or the likes especially if you are handholding on the Ferris wheel. Some of the smaller Gorilla Pods work well with compact cameras and with the flexible legs they can be wrapped around balcony rails etc. As for exposing for the brightest part of the image, I would agree but not the lights, expose for the brighter parts of the roadway bridge across the river. The lights on the buildings and signs etc, you will have to accept that they will blow out (overexpose) unless you are prepared to do some multiple exposures.

    Hope this helps

    • 17 Jul 2013 5:28AM
  • Collared Kingfisher


    Quote:had one before but the colour of yours is quite different

    Not sure how accurate the colours are as I had to use the fill light slider quite extensively just to get any light on the bird at all.

    • 4 Feb 2013 3:26AM
  • Splash Man

    Very nice, I like the effect, well done

    • 2 Feb 2013 2:33PM
  • Perching

    Hi louise,

    Great try but I feel you were a bit up against it with the light looking at the birds overexposed white breast and the dark background. I think the culprit here is the multi segment metering which has probably looked at the background and set the exposure accordingly which ultimately lead to the white breast being overexposed because the camera could not capture the entire tonal range in this scene. With shots like this you have to take the circumstances as they are because you can't change the background easily and you certainly can't ask the bird to move. With this in mind I always have my camera set to spot metering and I only use the centre point to focus. The technique I use is as follows and this is especially relevant for seabirds:

    When I see a subject, I can't always select my background, lighting circumstances or the amount of time the subject will remain in position, I therefore have to grab the iniatial shot or two as quickly as possible and then try and improve it the situation allows for it. With a shot like yours the first thing I would do is fire off a couple of shots, the main priority being focus. If after the initial shots, the subject still remains I will then look for anything that is white or bright in the scene especially white feathers, I then spot meter on that area and use exposure lock to keep that exposure. I then recompose and take more shots which are probably going to be a better exposure for the highlights than the first two. You have to remember that the background isn't really of any relevance at this point and is probably going to be out of focus anyway so exposure and sharpness of the subject are the main priorities. Usually and especially if the light is bright, the rest of the image will be a little underexposed but that is okay because we can usually lighten this in post production but if we overexpose any part of the image we normally cannot get anything back in those areas because there is no detail left in overexposed areas.

    Also with your composition, it is definately better to have the subject on a third with the wider part of the image for it to look into. Unfortunately, even though this bird is actually looking at you sideways, as humans we just naturally assume the the position the head is facing is the way the bird is looking.

    I did a quick mod where I added space on the left, adjusted levels and sharpened to show you what I meant.

    I'm happy to explain in more detail in a PM if you need it.

    I hope this helps
    • 13 Jan 2013 11:36PM
  • Bare tree

    Hi David,

    Welcome to EPZ and especially to the Critique area. As you have seen by the two comments above, you will get some great advice here but if you do find it good advice, don't forget to nominate it as 'good critique' as I have done with them.

    Just to elaborate a little more on Frank and Willies comments above in regards to sharpness, I don't see anything sharp in the entire image. Now this could be for a number of reasons but one thing to watch out for is the use of focussing modes and focus points. Now i'm not sure with Nikon cameras because they all seem to be different to me but you will get best results from a shot like this if you are in a non dynamic focussing mode such as AF-S. I believe the D40 has a new AF-A focus setting as well but I'm not sure how that works. What this means is that when you half press the shutter, it locks in the focus and it stays locked as long as you keep the shutter half pressed. However, if your camera is using multiple focus points you will find that it may focus on something closer than the tree and make the tree blurred which you obviously don't want. To avoid this and to take control of what is happening, I always use a single focus point (usually the centre one) to ensure that what I focus on is what I want sharp. Once you focus on the tree, as long as you half press the shutter, it won't matter where you point the camera, the tree will be sharp.

    now if you are attempting to blur the background in your messing around with focus, this is controlled by the aperture of the lens with the focal length, distance to subject and distance from subject to background all playing their part in how this works. This is covered in depth of field and expalnations of this can be found all over the internet.

    I hope this helps

    • 10 Jan 2013 2:42AM
  • North Beach Tenby

    Hi Chris,

    Great critique above from Willie and I second his comments about the image being small, try using the panoramic option next time you upload a shot like this.

    I did a quick mod myself because on first look the image seems flat which is generally a lack of contrast and adjusting levels/curves normally sorts this out but I liked the darker sky and thought the image would look better with the buildings standing out more. Therefore, in my mod I have darkened off the sky using the graduated filter tool in Adobe Camera RAW, adjusted the levels but then masked out the sea and sky from the levels adjustement in Photoshop. I then dodged the buildings and sand, the island and headland followed by some slight colour adjustment and sharpening.

    I hope this helps

    • 10 Jan 2013 2:00AM
  • January

    Hi Richard,

    I think a 12 shot montage or the likes would be a very good idea although you would need to marke the tripod etc so you get the same shot everytime, you could then use Proshow Producer or the like to create a slideshow to some music with the twelve images.

    For me though, I would have picked a better composition that this, yes you need to show a building in case it snows or something but I would find and old barn in afield or something and not those typical 50s houses you have on the left of the image. The field is good but what about some trees at the front as foreground interest or a fence or something? Also i would talk with the farmer and tell them what you intend because if he leaves that field dormant for a year you'll end up with a quite dull non changing field. I would think that you should have as many elements as possible in the image to show the changing conditions.

    My suggestion would be to take more than twelve images though, why not take one per day for a year and then run through that in a quick slideshow?

    Hope this helps

    • 10 Jan 2013 1:29AM
  • Flight

    It's a nice shot and a good capture, I would be almost tempted to crop off the other bird and desaturate the green tree a little. I'll havea go at a mod tomorrow and see if i can show you what I mean.

    • 9 Jan 2013 5:56AM
  • Time and Tide, Sandsend Dawn 2


    I haven't read any of the other replies but I have a lot of experience with camera club judges and if the UK one's are anything like the Aussie judges, take no notice. most camera club judges are so full of technical bullshit they forget to look at the images artistic merit at all. Why on earth would you crop that image?

    For e.g. at my local club someone had entered an image of a golfer on a green with all the trees behind them had been pruned right down to the trunk. Not a great image but the image was intended as a bit of fun. The image was titled 'No Birdies Here' and the judge completey missed it.

    Look for yourself HERE

    I rest my case, so keep going with the image and treat camera club judges with the contempt that they earn themselves.

    • 9 Jan 2013 5:53AM
  • Moonlit Problem

    Thanks Everyone,

    For you kind words on this image, I never thought it would be this popular. I'll definately consider this for the club competitions this year now.

    Thanks again

    • 9 Jan 2013 12:23AM
  • Winter sat on the fence

    Hi Ryan,

    This is a really well seen shot, the snow on the fence coupled with the shadows makes for a pleasant image. The only problem I have with it are the composition and the overall blue tint. With the composition I feel that there is just a bit too much sky and the shot could be cropped a little more panoramic. Secondly is the blue tint which although it has a feeling of the cold and a lot of people like this, it isn't really what you would have seen when you looked at this with your eyes.

    I have uploaded a quick mod with a crop and the white balance adjusted to give you a comparison.

    Hope it helps

    • 8 Jan 2013 5:36AM
  • Stormy Waters


    A quick question, did you have VR switched on or off with the camera presumably on a tripod? Sometimes VR or IS on Canon will give you blurred shots when used on a tripod, switch it off and use a remote shutter release or the self timer to reduce movement.

    • 7 Jan 2013 5:53AM
  • Sea Eagle


    I really love this shot but i just wish its eye was a touch brighter, otherwise a very good effort indeed.

    • 7 Jan 2013 5:50AM
  • Watchful Dawn

    Quote:but you could try and just lighten up the front woodwork on the lifeguard tower just a tad

    I agree so I've uploaded a mod to show this

    • 4 Jan 2013 3:47AM
  • Reflections

    Hi Simon,

    Obviously by your description you are not happy with the results and there are a number of factors against you here with your choice of lens etc. However, before I talk about any of that, the biggest problem is that you've stuck on your signature/name right over the most interesting area of the image. Put signatures on the back of the print or in a border, don't ruin your image with it especially putting your name on an image you're not happy with.

    First of all is the composition, you've taken it in portrait mode obviously to capture the reflection and there is nothing wrong with that but it restricts the scene and bear in mind the absolute majority of landscapes are taken in landscape mode. Your positioning of the windmill isn't the best either as in my opinion it is at the wrong side, i would have preferred it on the left third of the image. Also the background isn't sharp and this is largely due to the aperture used which is f/4 according to the exif data. I can see why because the shutter speed is down to 1/50th second and if you had used f/16 you'd have been down to about 1/4 second or so and that isn't hand holdable. So the first thing is, use tripod for landscapes so you can use smaller apertures and then the shutter speed doesn't matter. Also longer lenses tend to have shallower depths of field which also doesn't help with landscapes and even though you have used the lens at 70mm, this is a veritable telephoto in landscape terms.

    When shooting landscapes it often doesn't pay to walk around looking for them, you have to be there when the light and sky are right so it often means finding a great spot and returning several times over. Use a tripod, a wide lens with a narrow aperture and be patient. Don't forget your elements in the shot, foreground, middle and background which you have managed okay in this shot. Set up for your shot and wait until conditions are right then take lots of images with differing settings to get the shot you want.

    The shot here has come out flat and needs contrast to give it some punch, I have uploaded a quick mod where I added fill light and contrast in Camera RAW, adjusted levels in Photoshop and then added colour and sharpened.

    Hope this helps

    • 4 Jan 2013 3:35AM
  • Rock Steady

    Hi Lulu,

    just thought I'd have a go at quick mod myself, pretty much the same crop as Nick but i've adjusted the white balance and tweaked the colours a little. I also didn't crop out as many boats.

    I know it isn't always possible and sometimes you have only a few seconds to grab a shot but try to take images like this in less harsh sunlight, you've got some harsh shadows going on in this shot. Also just be a bit mindful about where you place your foreground interest in your images, this one is too central.

    Hope this helps

    • 2 Jan 2013 3:45AM
  • on cruise

    Hi Kypros,

    A great attempt an ideallic holiday shot and although you have given the ship some space to sail into there are a couple of elements here working against your image. The first is the position of the cruise liner in your frame, it is too central vertically and the palm tree frong/branch thingy is probably not the best. Given that the ship isn't going to speedily leave the scene I think you could have probably either picked a better palm or moved back to include more of the tree and get some beach or other foreground interest into the shot to get the viewer to look up through the image and finish with the cruise ship. have a look at the image on this page HERE to get an idea of what I am getting at.

    Hope this helps

    • 1 Jan 2013 11:42PM
  • Dolgoch Falls

    Hi Nick,

    Pleant of advice above on the image but not much on the techniques of shooting waterfalls in the daytime. Your image here is overexposed, hence no detail in the water and it's much easier to get this right in camera than in Photoshop. I would suspect that it is because of the amount of light at the time and I noticed that your image was taken in the afternoon in August and that would more than likely mean a lot of sunlight. I also notice that your aperture is set to f/6.3 which I am suprised about.

    First of all, it is very hard to take a slowish exposure of a waterfall without overexposing the water so you should ensure that you meter for the brightest part of the water especially if the sun is shining on it. Also to get the water effect you desire, whether it be cotton wool like or just frozen, you need to adjust your exposure time. The problem comes when you shut down the aperture to the smallest hole usually f/22 and the shutter speed is still too fast to capture the effect you want and slowing the shutter any further only results in overexposure. This happened to me once and stupidly I'd left the essential filters back in the car and all I had was a circular polariser. With the polariser fitted I did manage to lose a further stop of light and with the sun covered by a cloud I did grab the shot. Lesson learned what I should have done is taken and fitted my variable neutral density filter which allows the camera to use much slower shutter speeds in bright light by blocking the light entering the lens, of course a tripod is essential as well.

    With regards to your shot, you need to use a smaller aperture such as f/16 and with it, a much slower shutter speed. A tripod or some way of securing the camera is also advised for shots like this. Your shot seems very saturated and it definately looks like you've oversharpened it although I may be wrong it may just be like this. Remember that you should still consider foreground interest even with shots like this, there nearly always rocks or the like at the bottom of a waterfall so use them to enhance the scene a bit like the fallen branch in this IMAGE and also in this IMAGE which helps to lead the viewers eye into the shot.

    Hope this helps

    • 1 Jan 2013 11:27PM
  • Mariner's Falls

    Thank you all for the comments, votes and best wishes, Happy New Year to all of you too.

    • 1 Jan 2013 10:22PM
  • Winter Water

    Hi Alicia,

    When I first looked at your image, I will be honest and i thought that's a picture of nothing in particular however, the more I have looked at it the more i like it. Having looked at Willie's mod I did a quick mod of my own and what I think was wrong was the 4 x 3 format. I cropped the image into a landscape panoramic format and i think it works quite nicely so i then adjusted the levels, straightened the river bank, cropped top and bottom, dodged some highlights and burned some of the brighter bits, cloned a few items, added some colour then sharpened. I now think it is a great image Wink The rough water makes a great foreground with the reeds/plants as a middleground and the trees and houses beyond a good background.

    Well done

    • 31 Dec 2012 6:00AM
  • I'm out of here

    Hi Bill,

    No need to apologise for the camera operation, we all have to start somewhere. Looking at the exif data before the picture i notice that your ISO is set on 3200 and that isn't a good thing at at all. Therefore even though you haven't mastered the dials yet, you need to do two things before you take any more pictures. The first is to change the dial on your camera from the green square to the 'P' mode, the only difference you will notice is that the flash will no longer annoyingly pop up. There are other differences but that is the thing you will notice. Secondly, press the ISO button on your camera and take it off 'Auto' and put it onto 100 and leave it there and only change it back to auto if you are in a dark room with hardly any light and can't use flash. The quality of an image at ISO 3200 is vastly less superior to one taken at ISO 100 especially in the darker areas.

    Here your image is not sharp and this looks to me like movement in the image because the tree seems sharp at the point of focus. I would suggest that the bird was just moving enough to blur in the 320th of s econd that you took the shot.The wings being blurred is a good thing though because that shows movement and lets us know as a viewer that the bird is alive and not stuffed so to speak. i think shots like this are mastered with a little bit of practice and knowing where to focus. I would be using the centre focus point only and i would be pointing it straight at its head.

    The shot itself is not bad, a little dark under the wings but at least there is no overexposed parts in the image. the subject is a little central in the image and would benefit for the right side being cropped a little. the branch in the top right corner does not need to be there as it is not adding to this image and is therefore a distraction, the crop will alleviate this.

    I have done a quick mod where I have cropped the right, top and bottom of the image, added a little colour and adjusted the levels. I then dodged under the wings to get some detail in there and I then sharpened.

    Hope this all helps

    • 31 Dec 2012 5:39AM
  • Winter

    Hi Lukasz,

    A truly beautiful image which is worthy of some sort of award. I think it is just slightly flat and could do with a slight increase in contrast but apart from that, well done.

    • 31 Dec 2012 1:25AM