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  • In my film days I mostly used slide film for the serious stuff and colour print for holiday snaps. For various reasons I was never in a position to develop and print my own so stuck with commercial processing.

    My earliest foray into digital was with a scanner and Photoshop Elements 2 or sometimes scans from the film processor (not usually all that good in truth). As it happened I lucked into a secondhand EOS D30 shortly after which I meant I could abandon all the tedium and issues of scanning and go straight from camera to computer in one go...Smile
  • I suspect that this issue may be connected to the new focusing system that 70D uses for the live view option. There's probably been some very minor change in the way the AF communicates with the lens that the converter can't cope with hence the lock up.

    This is a very similar problem to that found with old Sigma lenses and digital EOS bodies, Canon changed a protocol connected with aperture control and as a result digital EOS and some late model fim bodies either error out (Err99) or lock up totally - my EOS30 film body locks up totally and like your 70D only battery removal will free it.

    Sadly it looks like a new converter is your best bet...

  • Quote:
    Chris_L e2 Member
    I'm referring to what Paul is suggesting, that the 8 isn't software corrected for distortion but that the 7 (-14) is

    There wouldn't be any point in software correction for a fisheye as the distortion is intentional and built into the design.

    Also the distortion correction options built into some software, and in some cases into camera firmware, are only intended to deal with residual disortion, they're not designed to handle full scale rectilinear corrections - with normal lenses like the 7-14 this is achieved by the optical design.
  • Sounds like the brightness of your rear screen is set quite high if the blacks are greyish and it looks overexposed. If you go into the set up options in the menus somewhere there should be an option to adjust the brightness and there you can make it darker.

  • Quote:I also noticed that even when I was able to take photographs, some would appear grossly over exposed. I've tried the lens with a 5D Mk II and 7D bodies and got the same problem, although updating the firmware to the latest version seemed to solve it for a while. On an old 5D body I got no problem, until this morning. It seems to have packed up altogether.

    Did the error specify dirty contacts or was it the ubiquitous Err99?

    I agree that the gross overexposure sounds suspiciously like the aperture diaphragm is not closing down properly. Try setting the aperture to something reasonably smaller than maximum and depress the depth of field preview button, if the viewfinder fails to darken and the diaphragm doesn't shut down or shuts slowly when you look down the front of the lens then your diaphragm has failed in some way - in which case it's a repair shop job...

  • Quote:I like to remain mobile when out and only settle down when there is a sunrise/sunset to not miss any colour.

    Generally I'm the same, I much prefer not to lug a tripod about unless I absolutely know I'm going to use it. The rest of the time I rely on higher ISO and image stabilisation where available.

    FWIW I use 18-70mm and 55-300 VRII Nikkors on my D50. At some point I guess I ought to get a 10-20mm type as well but as I only bought the D50 to use my old manual lenses on it's not really a priority. If I want to have extra wide angle capacity then I bring out Canons coupled with a trio of 10-20, 17-70 and 70-200 lenses - sometimes adding a 200-400 to the bag if I'm feeling strong...Grin

    There are occasions when I really think it'd be nice to have an 18-200+ zoom just for those times when I don't really want to carry too much but I do remain sceptical about the absolute image quality of superzoom lenses.

    Quote: Digital SLR photography mag recommended a 18-200mm zoom lens for sunsets to be in control of composition.

    Never come across such a recommendation before though I suppose using one lens rather than having to change form one lens to another it less time consuming. Compostion control though is largely down to bit of thought about what you want to acheive - which should then tell you what focal length you need and where's the best place to stand/sit/lie. Zooms make it too easy to simply zoom in/out without considering whether moving forward or backward and using a shorter/longer focal length lens might ultimately result in a better composition...

    Quote:I do envy ultra sharp landscape photographs with sunsets/landscapes.
    I have my filters but still need to purchase a tripod. I am being fussy which one to buy as I like walking in the outdoors and remain mobile so it is essential the tripod is light quick and durable.


    Tripods do make a very noticable difference to ultimate sharpness even at shutter speeds where you might think they aren't necessary but they really come into their own when the light is low and or the focal length is long. Light weight is desirable but not at the expense of stability so choose wisely.

  • A January evening on Bognor seafront...

  • Quote:Ah yes, the calamitous Canon T80. One of the shortest-lived cameras ever.

    I have one of those... and it still works despite being more than a bit on the slow side.

    One advantage the T80 has over modern AF cameras is the provision of a split image range-finder.