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ge22y

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  • I always save at the beginning as a PSD file and then after each major alteration, sometimes saving it as a new file if I'm not sure about the progress I've made, once the the shot is complete I then save that as a JPEG for printing. If you don't save as you go what happens if you have a power cut?
  • I agree with Rossd above, perhaps one of the officers is also a keen photographer and s/he was genuinely interested in watching you work! Were you using lights/pro equipment? If there had been 3 men in suits watching you work would you have posted this thread? I think a lot of people forget that under the uniform police officers are just people with hobbies and interests just like the rest of us! They may well have liked to engage you in conversation about your style/techniques etc but but due to the negative press the police get with photographers decided to stand back and watch instead.
  • To do it yourself you need a camera which has a function in the menu called something along the lines of AF fine tune, it's usually only found on higher spec camera's, I know it's on the Nikon D7000 and above, my mate also has it on his Canon 5DII and 1D mk4.

    On the Nikon it allows you to make 20 adjustments either forwards or backwards, I think it basically moves the sensor either forward or backward adjusting the focus point (it doesn't actually adjust the lens)
  • Another vote for the 50mm 1.8, stunning value for money and super sharp, I use mine on a D7000 for all of my portrait work.

  • Quote:Thanks for the advice cameracat but, I used Nikon View NX2 to convert the file into a tiff then tried to open it in PS4. It wouldn't open and a window stated, 'Could not complete your request because its not a valid Photoshop document'. After spending 350 in part because of the Raw facility I'm not impressed.

    Who should I blame, Nikon or Adobe?



    Neither - There's been 2 upgrades since you bought CS4... As Cameracat has already suggested, just download Adobes DNG converter which is free, convert the NEF files to DNG, then open the DNG files with CS4 and hey presto job done, it's how I open my D7000 files.
  • A great site, nice and clean, only comment I would have mirrors what has already been said, a one line description would be nice, more so on the military stuff to give it a bit of meaning, would love to know what the group of people with the colour popped numbers were up to for instance.
  • I think I'd be asking myself if this was the right commission for me if that's how you feel, if you believe you can't pose a larger a lady to make a great shot then the shots are likely to be sub-standard, do you really want to publish work that isn't your best?

    I don't do weddings but I wonder how many photographers turn away brides to be because of their size - they learn to make the most of their subject and what works for every shape and size.

    If you do go ahead I'd recommend watching Gok Wans How to look good naked series, I picked up loads of tips from there. You may be surprised how many 'smaller' girls are just as uncomfortable about their size.

    Do a dry run posing your models in dressing gowns so they get an idea of what you want of them so naked time is kept to a minimum.
  • Have you tried the Sigma 24-70 2.8 on the D7000 yet? I have an older model of this lens which works fine with my Fuji S5 Pro and worked fine with my D300s, I had to sell the D300s last year and eventually replaced it with a D7000 but the Sigma lens won't work with the camera, when I put the 28-70 lens on the camera won't turn on, no error messages or anything. I've spoken to Sigma who want 50 to rechip the lens (5 if I had the the receipt for the initial purchase of the lens).

    I imagine there will also be an influx of D700 bodies on the 2nd hand market in the not too distant future when the supply of D800's catches up with demand, a friend of mine has just got a new D800 and is considering selling his D3s he's that impressed with the 800.

    On one's perfect resize is worth having a look at, great for upsizing smaller files, I use it all the time with the S5.

  • Quote:I always find in strange that people over-sharpen at another size the downsample - surely its better to do the sharpening at the image size its displayed at rather than second guessing?


    That's what I thought and did until I was advised about this method. Personally this system works for me and gave far better result than the usual method. There's no second guessing involved, once I found that sharpening twice gave me the best results I apply it to all of my shots that I upload to the web. The only thing I didn't mention was that I erase the sharpening in a layer mask from any water and sky in the shot.

    Sharpening for printing is a different matter entirely and I do that at the output size in the normal fashion.
  • Hi Wayne,

    Just did a quick skim through the portraits in the photo gallery, is this the sort of thing you mean?

    Like this

    If so, there's a load of techniques, basically you need to light your subject at an angle between say 45 and 90 degrees depending on how much shadow you want, 45 degrees less shadow, 90 degrees lots of shadow. To do this either set up a flash gun off your camera at the desired angle, or if you haven't got a flash gun, place your subject at the desired angle in a window and use natural light.

    Gez.
  • Don't know Malcolm sorry, I've never used elements. Filter-sharpen-sharpen is the basic sharpener in photoshop so if that's what elements has to offer I would say it gives similar results.
  • If you use photoshop this is what I do;

    Process your image.
    When complete go to image - image size, resize your image to 1200 pixels (2000 pixels for e2) along the longest length.
    Once you've done this go to Filter - Sharpen - Sharpen, repeat this process 2 or 3 times (I do it twice), your image will look pretty rubbish and over sharpened.
    Now for the clever bit - Go back to image size and resize to 600 pixels (1000 pixels for e2), your image should look pin sharp.
    Then to save use the save for web and devices options.

    You'll need to play around with how many times you sharpen the image, as I said I do it twice, a mate of mine does it 4 times.

    Hope this helps,

    Gez.
  • Good news, hope you enjoy your new lens, the wide angle made such a difference to my landscapes...

    As for your last comment, I'd carefully consider not having a lens between 24-70 on your trip, you may find yourself limited, I've never been to New York so couldn't comment whether you'd need a focal length as long as 300 but would think somewhere between 24-70 would be useful, so would definitely take the 28-70 you have.

    I'd probably take a couple of trial runs to your local city and see what lenses you use as a practice run.
  • Double check its unlimited for life as well mate and not just an introductory offer or unrealistically low 'reasonable usage' policy, not with sky myself but a mate in work changed to them and I know he had to pay extra for full unlimited.
  • No your right, 200 is for the Photoshop CS5 element only. The production premium edition is 330 while the master suite comes it at 570.
  • Or if you have someone eligible in your household and you don't need it for commercial use, get a student licence for around 200. Off the top of my head you need a child in Comprehensive school or on a full time (2 year) higher education course.
  • Have you tried the 30 day trial? I did and decided at the time (when CS5 was released) that the new features didn't warrant the upgrade from CS4, I've since bought a new camera and the RAW files aren't directly supported by the ACR in CS4 (no longer upgradable), there is a work around for this but my upgrade to CS5 in the new year or hold out for the replacement to CS5 if there's any sign of it in 2012.
  • As far as filters go they may be referring to vignetting at the wider end caused by the filter holder, as long as you get the wide angle adapter ring for your system you'll be fine. I use nd filters with mine and haven't had any problems. On that note if you decide to get the sigma 10-20 check which one you get the fixed f3.5 has a filter diameter of 82mm while the variable f stop one has a diameter of 77mm a pain if you have a collection of screw on filters.
  • I may be wrong but the D50 may not have an auto focus motor in the body, if that's the case you'll need a lens with a motor to power the auto focus which is why the D50 may not be in the list.

    As for the lens' I had the Sigma 10-20 it was a great lens and made a huge difference to my landscapes going from an 18-55. I needed to raise some funds in a hurry so sold it on eBay for 250 back in June.

    I've replaced it now with a Nikkor 12-24 which I picked up on eBay for 280 as a buy it now. It's a great lens and I don't really miss the 2mil, so I would definitely recommend keeping an eye out on eBay. Comparing the 2 lens the Nikkor is slightly better around the edges but for general wide angle landscapes I don't think there's a giant leap between the 2.
  • Cole, Simlabs are of an equal quality imo, the prints are a little cooler looking if anything. I sent two identical 18x12 prints of Tarmac Monster from my pf to each of the printers, the print from Simlabs was a truer representation of what I had on my monitor. The only real difference being that the lower bank of cloud on the right didn't quite have the same warmth that it had from Proam. Definitely worth trying though mate as they only charge a flat 5 rate for postage.
  • I used to use pro am but have switched to sim labs, they are cheaper on their postage and their prints by a couple of pence. The site is a lot easier to use and they can print larger than 18 x 12 if you need it.

    www.simlab.co.uk

  • Quote:Oh, and where have all the craft shops gone for buying said "glue" and mounting board ?


    The internet!!!

    Seriously, try your local Range store if you have one, I get my mount boards from there, about six months ago they were around 3 for an A1 board or 4 for 10, if your looking for a bigger bulk purchase I'd look online.
  • What make filters are you using? Cokin give a magenta colour cast especially when you use the higher nd's or if you stack them.
  • Just bought a D7000 myself, I'm using CS4 and I couldn't update Adobe Camera Raw to the latest version to open the D7000 files. I doubt you'll be able to update Elements 6 either (Adobes way to make sure you upgrade to the latest edition). You either need to upgrade your elements to the latest edition or us a DNG converter. I'm currently using Adobe's DNG converter which is a free download from the Adobe site, it converts the D7000 files to DNG which you can then open in your Elements ACR. It's one extra step but cheaper than updating your software.

    Gez
  • Cheers Cole, looks like its a CS5 upgrade shortly for me then and the DNG converter until then.
  • Hi,

    I've just bought a Nikon D7000, I'm currently using CS4, unfortunately my version of ACR doesn't support the RAW files of the D7000, does anyone know if there is an update for CS4's ACR? I can't find one on the Adobe site.

    Thanks,

    Gez.
  • Another vote for e-bay, as long as you are honest about the condition, charge the correct amount for postage etc you shouldn't have a problem. I've bought and sold a number of photographic items on there without a hitch.

    And another vote for the epz classifieds as long as your realistic, I had a part exchange value on a lens, the shop offered 150 for a 400 lens, put it on the classifieds for 300 and sold it the same day, I could have sold it 3 times over by the time I pulled the advert down the following day.

    Also bought from MPB, the buying process was very simple and hassle free, so I imagine their trading process will be just as good.

  • Quote:Seriously; what would make you prefer the D300s over a D7000?


    Chris have you experienced using a D300s against a D7000? The reason I ask is I had to sell my D300s (which I loved) a couple of months ago, I'm now in a position to replace it but I don't know whether to go for the D300s again or the D7000, on paper the D7000 looks like the better camera but I know what the D300s can do! I'm trying to get as many opinions on the D7000 as I can. I don't think my budget is going to stretch to the D400 or if I want to dangle on a piece of string waiting for the release.

    Cheers,

    Gez.
  • I use a D300s with a sigma 10-20 3.5, great combination and easily prints A3+/18x12 I haven't printed any bigger but imagine it will handle going larger as the quality at 18x12 is brilliant.

    On another note if you already own top quality Canon lenses and want a Crop body why not go for the Canon 7D or 60D? I ran both Canon and Nikon for a while, but ended up selling the Canon stuff on as it was too expensive to keep the 2 marques running side by side...

    With the 20+ MP Canon 5DII full frame wouldn't that be your first choice for landscaping anyway, that way you wouldn't need the 10-20 as something like the 17-40 would give similar performance. Also by sticking with Canon and having both a full frame and crop body for every lens you have or buy in the future you are effectively getting 2 lens', the original focal length and one with a 1.5x increase i.e a 17-40 will give you 17-40 on the 5DII and then 25-60 on the crop body.
  • I find less is more Ade, I've tried using more images with less of a jump between stops but find photomatix and oloneo work better with less images I usually use between 3 and 5 images.