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Sorry I am no longer uploading to EPZ. I would like to thank those who genuinely followed my work, but I no longer feel the enthusiasm for EPZ as I once did and therefore have taken the decision to leave the community. I am not sure whether this will be permanent, it seems that way at the moment, but I will not delete my portfolio incase you wish to contact me or to see my latest work visit my WEBSITE or FLICKR .

Many thanks,

...Read More
  • Yes you're right, film plane to aperture. You don't have to be 100% accurate, all depends on the look you're after too. If it's not within the optimal range you'll just have a softer image with slightly less contrast. Important you calculate the f/stop correctly though.

    Pinholes are great fun, just converted a few cameras myself for a workshop in May. If you want more information on pinhole photography check out my website, sorry for the blatant plug Wink
  • I got one last year and have to agree with Alan. Although they're not cheap they're very versatile in that it not only shields your LCD display from harsh light, but achieving manual focus for front/back tack sharp images is much easier and you can also use it as a masking tool over the screen for working out crop factors.

  • Hi Nicola, it would be helpful if you could clarify exactly what you want to achieve by buying a new camera. The Canon 450D is a great little camera, it was my first DSLR and I opted to upgrade my lenses first and the image quality gain was fantastic.

  • Sorry forgot to qualify that comment, what I meant was what you get in return for the price you pay. As an example when compared to other systems, with improved resolution, sensor tech this is what you would pay out.

    Canon 5D MkIII - 2,299
    Nikon D810 - 2,399
    Sony A7R - 1,850 (inc metabones adapter to use existing lenses)
  • I'm in a similar situation looking to upgrade from my 5D MK1 next year. I think Canon users have suffered a lot of disappointment in recent years, especially with other manufacturers making advancements in the market with new sensor tech and mirrorless systems. As Mike has indicated, the 1st quarter of next year is when some sort of announcement/release is expected, but we've heard those kind of rumours before Wink Personally if nothing happens then I may have to consider a different system as I would feel cheated paying the full price for a 5D MkIII.
  • Procanvas do them at 25mm, I've used them before and the quality of the printing & finish is excellent.

  • Quote:If I recall correctly I pay 1 extra per month on my household policy to insure my camera equipment (upto value of 3k),...
    The main criteria for insurance companies services cost is the estimated risk degree. If the numbers remembered correctly - it's about zero, they just get a pay for making legal script. Please check small writing - what are the events you are insured against? And how the claim will affect your policy as a whole. A couple of times I found on my own that not reading it was a serious mistake.

    I agree you should always read the small print, how many do that I wonder, not many I bet.

    Quote:P.S. Please update your profile since you are still with us. I don't mind it at all - but that looks weird. Thanks!

    Each to their own I guess, but I don't feel the need to change my profile as I only check out articles and forums.
  • If I recall correctly I pay 1 extra per month on my household policy to insure my camera equipment (upto value of 3k), this includes away from home. I can't see the benefits of having separate insurance unless you're a pro and use it for business purposes.
  • Thanks Keithh that does put it into perspective Wink

    Quote:Does it have to be a one off? Would the customer object to you selling the image elsewhere once complete?

    I can see where you're coming from, but then the image loses it's personal appeal and for me it's value as it's not an area I would ordinarily photograph anyway.
  • Thanks for your input Keithh. 1000 would be nice Wink but for the average Joe Public it's not going to be entertained and ultimately would scare them off. It's only going to be printed once for this customer so it'll be unique and personal for them. It's hard to put a price on that yet I don't want to under value my work.
  • Hi everyone,

    I've just received my first landscape photo commission and would like your advice on pricing.

    The image to be taken will be a one-off edition and mounted/framed for a returning customer (not commercial I add) who wants an image of his village or surrounding area. The location is only 5 miles from my doorstep so travelling is minimal but I do plan on getting out there a few times before Christmas. For arguments sake say a normal open edition image costs 100 (inc mount/framing) then based on that number how would you mark up for this one-off?

    Any help will be greatly appreciated Smile

    Thanks in advance.

  • New device from WD that requires no mains, no computer/tablet interface whilst on the move.


    It's only for SD cards, would be interested in one myself had it done it for CF cards. Worth a look though.
  • DNG files are universally accepted, whereas manufacturer specific raw files can potentially change and no longer be supported by third party software. I always use DNG, slightly reduced file size and no loss in quality.
  • Just sent you a PM.
  • This is something I've recently researched due to losing a hard drive (data was not recoverable) on my laptop and got lazy with backing up. It will very much depend on what you can afford, although CDs are good you may want to consider purpose made archival cd storage, as for memory sticks they are good but they are quite small and easily lost/misplaced. Cds are susceptible to scratches and shouldn't be relied on as the sole method of backing up. Solid State Drives (SSD) are a brilliant alternative, these are basically an oversized memory stick and because they have no mechanical parts the data is safe from mechanical failure. I recently bought a My Book Live Duo 4TB personal cloud storage. This is wireless and sits in my living room so even if I am away I can still back up directly to this drive. I have this setup as Raid 1 so if one drive fails then I have the other to extract the data from, so far it has been brilliant. I do still backup to an additional external drive. My advice is to make duplicate backups on at least 2 or 3 different drives/media, as technology advances there is no guarantee any will be compatible on PCs in say 20-30 years time so always check each time you upgrade.

    Hope this helps Smile
  • I use a rain cover from one of my hiking rucksacks and use a hair bobble to secure it. It works a treat as it doesn't flap about and tear like plastic bags do.
  • I agree with Mike, if I'm not mistaking the 550d uses the same processor as the 7d (DIGIC 4). My father-in-law has the 550d and the IQ is really good.
  • I use an F-stop backpack because of its versatility. You can swap the camera compartment for different sized units depending on what you carry. Very comfy to carry on long walks or climbs. Although not cheap they are built to last.
  • I travelled to Lapland last December when the aurora activity was supposed to be high. Never seen the lights during my 5 night stay, low cloud and continuous snow fall prevented that Sad Was still a lovely experience, particularly for my little daughter. Anyway, I never did any hiking so I took my full sized tripod and head along with my 17-40 & 24-70 lenses. I never took the 17-40 lens off the camera. If I was you I would leave the prime at home and carry both the 10-20 & 18-135. I had a quick look at the Manfrotto BeFree tripod I think the head comes with it. Have a look at the EPZ review also has some other recommendations. Also take a look at the Feisol traveller tripods, they've been getting some good reviews.
  • I've recently designed from scratch an A3 calendar of my landscape images for the first time, it was quite a learning curve but very satisfying. Asking similar questions like yourself I found the best way was to approach a local printing firm (AlphaGraphics was my choice) to discuss options and actually go down and see what the paper/printing quality was like. They even proof printed/finished one of mine to see what the final product would look like, in the end they never charged me for that as I placed an order with them. So my advice would be to look for someone local so you can physically see an end product before committing to batch prints (the more you print the cheaper it becomes per unit). It may depend on where you get this done, but note that although you want an A3 calendar the paper size may actually be something they call SRA3, which is slightly larger. This allows the printers to trim to size so you will have to include crop marks if you design it yourself. Don't forget to check what colourspace they use, the preferred dpi and margin measurements for bleeding/trimming.

    To give you an idea my specification was:
    A3 Portrait calendar (12 month pages, plus front/rear cover)
    200gsm digital silk paper
    punched/wire bound
    shrink wrapped with grey board back

    I've attached an image to give you an idea of what it looked like, I was very happy with the end product. They have sold very well, I think I only have 4 or 5 left from a batch of 100.

    I hope this helps, and good luck with it.

  • Click T-Hinge method to see instructions. It's handy to use a paperweight to hold the print in position until hinged and stuck in position on the back board (I put the weight in a sock so it doesn't scratch the print). Never put print under tension nor tape along full length of sides, paper likes to breath so it will expand and contract, under tension it will ripple eventually. Once you stick the backboard to the mount the print will be held firmly in place.
  • I prefer to mount my images using the 'T' hinge method. I create the hinges using pH neutral tape which is strong enough to hold the image in position as well as allowing for repositioning. I will then stick the mount to the back board using a very strong double sides adhesive tape, I have tried cheap tape but it does not hold well. So far none of my images have suffered from rippling so it works very well. Buying standard sized mounts in bulk is very economical, for these I use Cotswold, for one off special sizes I use local framer from Guisborough market.

    Hope this helps


  • Quote:...........but I started disagreeing with some things, deleted my PF, and drifted away. I've recently started dipping my toe in the site again, reading the forums, contributing a bit if a thread interests me or I can offer an opinion, but the gallery here doesn't really hold any interest for me anymore.......................... I'm actually pretty indifferent to what people think about my work here now. So I understand perfectly now how it's possible to like the interaction of the forum without partaking in the gallery side.

    I did almost the same as Steve, with exception to deleting my PF (I deleted a lot of images but got bored of doing that one by one Wink ). I've not uploaded any images here for a long time and therefore my PF no longer reflects my photography. I suppose through a lack of enthusiasm I took a breather from this site and spent more time looking at my own photography rather than others and developing my own style and website without influence. I have recently started to be more active on this site, although I haven't uploaded anything recently I do participate in other ways.

    Quote:...... I love looking at other peoples work. Its frustrating though to get forum posts claiming this that and the other and not get the slightest bit of 'evidence' even when asked for.......

    If they have a website link you could always visit the site to see their work.
  • As the old saying goes "You only get what you pay for" and not everyone can afford Lee filters (or a 1,500 lens for that matter), but I think Gundog was making the point that in practical terms they all do the same job and yes quality will vary. Why put anything in front of the lens if it's going to affect IQ? There has to be a compromise somewhere be it using post-processing or getting it right in the camera using filters.
  • Have you considered Feisol ? They are very similar to the Gitzo design, but at half the price. They may not look as pretty as Gitzo but they are just as good. I have one without the centre column and can honestly say I do not miss that feature. The tripod stands at eye level and is very robust, also has the twist lock legs. So far it has been a joy to use and have had no need to clean the leg joints even after many dips in saltwater.
  • Hi Peter, in response to your first question it is possible to take decent landscape images without filters, it is often debated that when you start introducing plastic/glass filters in front of the lens the image quality starts to diminish. Different people have different ways of accomplishing an image. I prefer to use ND grads and full ND filters to complete the image in one photo rather than spending lots of time post-processing/manipulating. There are times when filters are of no use, then I will use the hand blending method rather than HDR to gain a natural look. Don't feel compelled to buy Lee filters just because someone makes the comment, as good as they are, they are too expensive for most and there are many other manufacturers to consider. I use Hitech and they have been great.