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Bee's Eye

By joenickselby
This a awesome shot I took with my Canon EOS 600D! I tried to isolate the eye and try to make the eye stand out with the flash. I think this is a nice side to a nice bee.

Tags: Close-up and macro Wildlife and nature Flash and lighting

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Comments


paulbroad Plus
12 131 1286 United Kingdom
8 Sep 2013 9:13AM
You are commenting on your own image. Sorry, it's just nowhere near sharp enough, and that is due to the lens used and, I suspect, a huge blow up. Your EXIF suggests things you are not telling us. Spot metering is useless in these conditions, flash fired, no aperture shown and Canonlenses are IS, not VR. The latter is Nikon.

So, just viewing the image, you need great sharpness on the eye to show the structure and would need a small aperture.

Paul

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paulbroad Plus
12 131 1286 United Kingdom
8 Sep 2013 1:50PM
Just read your message. A zoom lens is never going to be ideal for macro and reversed, even less so. You need something like a 50mm fixed focal length reversed. I assume you could thus not stop down the lens aperture. Without that ability, I'm afraid you have no chance.

Sorry to be negative.wrong gear.

Paul
banehawi Plus
15 2.2k 4049 Canada
8 Sep 2013 3:33PM
Welcome to EPZ, and enjoy the site


You need to include what you did in your description. I take it you revered a lens or the like, and this MUST be in the description so we know what we are looking at.

It definitely has some potential, with this technique using the right lens, so its worth some more practice. If you search "reversing lenses" and "Extension Tubes" in the forums, you will likely get a lot of good information.

Regards



Willie
paulbroad Plus
12 131 1286 United Kingdom
9 Sep 2013 9:34AM
If you are going to reverse a lens directly, then you must have some means of stopping down the aperture. Many modern lenses do not have this facility. You can buy stop down rings for some lens systems, but they are very slow to use. Meant for set pieces.

So, lens reversing is best with an older fixed focal length lens with aperture ring. Entirely possible and a very good old 50mm can be bought very cheaply.

It is also possible to reverse a lens onto the front of another lens. This gives huge magnification, but also magnifies the aberrations of both lenses. You can thus use the aperture on the lens fitted to the camera. Is it all worth it?

Paul
Okay so I just need to get an old 50mm lens with a aperture that I can manipulate on the lens itself not on the camera ?
I am about to buy a Canon EF 100mm f2.8L Macro IS USM Lens... Is that okay ? I may reverse that as well.

And I have got some extension tubes but they have turned out to be bust. Just so you know it is from !!DONT GET THEM!! here!http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001CWZE6A/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I can't get mine of my actual lens complete wast of time!

Joe
I have done alot of research on metering and am now doing evaluative so that's a start!
Joe
Nick_w Plus
12 4.3k 99 England
10 Sep 2013 12:32PM
Theres some good points above.

I wouldn't dispair it is possible to get good close up results from lenses not designed for the task. Yes a macro lens is the perfect answer, you can reverse the lens - or use extenders (quite cheap and you will keep metering options - I have some somewhere I think called Kenco, but I don't do macro).

This image was taken with a long zoom, and is still one of my favourite images of this genre. Its a matter of understanding the equiptment you have and how to get the best from it. These skills will help when you can afford the lens best suited for the task.

If you reversed the lens as suggested, you will have problems metering and controlling aperture on modern lenses (you could always get an old manual 50mm lens for the purpose).

The mode of metering is not that important, its understanding the scene - a lot of black in the image you will need to overexpose the suggested reading slightly, if there was a lot of white / highlights you underexpose. I will be honest I keep forgetting to change the settings on my camera, its not that important as I check the histogram - so making sure all the data isn't lumped to either extreme of the graph (be carefull here it will be to the left due to the darks, just make sure no highlights clip, and there is an incline on the LHS). Understanding exposure is a great skill to have, then you are not reliant on exactly what Mr Nikon / Canon suggest, and it makes it easier to produce the image you want.

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