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  • Commented on 'Halo after re-size and after sharpen.'

    Then again, chromatic aberration might not be it. Had a go at opening in camera RAW and playing with the sliders and it didn't help.
    • 2 Nov 2009 6:23PM
  • Commented on 'Halo after re-size and after sharpen.'

    Thank you to every one, lots for me to go through. My simple 'work flow' is becoming more complex with each post.

    Quote:Try Easy Thumbnails - free download. Easy peasy!

    RogBrown - best result so far with re-sizing halo.

    Chromatic aberrations (lemmy) is also a good thought which I'll be looking into next.

    What I've come up with is;
    Open jpeg in Ps
    Save as TIFF
    Crop and save
    Open in Easy Thumbnails and resize 800X800 at 100% quality.
    Open in PS and re-save as TIFF (ET saves as jpeg)
    Healing brush/ clone stamp
    Noise - Neat Image plug-in
    Adjustments - levels etc
    Save as TIFF
    Save as jpeg
    Sharpen Tiff, save as jpeg and compare with previous jpeg. Repeat until happy.
    Save final copy as jpeg.

    Using Easy Thumbnails gives much better result with re-sizing than Photoshop which I find odd. Have posted a pic today of the Pelican I've been struggling with ("Brown on Blue" no need to vote but if you want to have a look). Along the leading edge of the top wing is where I've particularly had problems. Before I sharpened I made a selection away from the outline of the bird so the faint line (hard to see here admitedly) is all to do with size and not sharpening. Lemmy's chromatic aberration suggestion could be the proper term for what I've been experiencing.

    Best wishes, Mike
    • 2 Nov 2009 5:13PM
  • Commented on 'Halo after re-size and after sharpen.'

    Hello everyone, thank you for the replies - a lot to go through, probably after work tomorrow (have just got back in - haven't been ignoring you).

    First up I've got a Canon 400D and can't find anything in the menus about sharpening so I'm assuming in camera isn't an option.

    I use Unsharp Mask because it's easy for a novice but I really only do what is necessary and am doing it at 100% view. Smart Sharpen could be a way forward when I've got my head around it.

    I've tried shooting in RAW but when I'm after birds or bugs I get around eight frames continuous shooting then the camera takes a break to save to my card (Sandisk Extreme III 4GB CF) and I draw stares with my swearing. Plus the pics I'm working on at the moment were taken on holiday when storage was an issue even with an Epson 40GB store and save.

    The halo effect is more obvious when I resize and sharpen but I also get it when I only resize (assuming with my 400D there is no sharpening going on in camera). The resize halo is what I don't understand. For the purposes of trying to work out what is going on all I'm doing is opening in PS (picture of a Pelican against a blue sky) cropping and resizing from 2154 to 800 so I can view the picture full size in Windows and there is a deffinate halo.

    Just been trying with opening a jpeg as camera Raw, resizing and saving as a TIF file and still get a halo.
    • 1 Nov 2009 10:36PM
  • Commented on 'Halo after re-size and after sharpen.'


    When I re-size an image in Photoshop CS3 (e.g. down from around 2000 pixels on longest side to 800) I get a halo around the image which is made worse when I sharpen with Unsharp Mask.

    I didn't notice this before as I wasn't re-sizing to view on my PC which led to loss of sharpness. Solved that by re-sizing but now have halo problem instead.

    Any thoughts? I know there are other ways to sharpen than Unsharp Mask which I need to get into (but kept simple) but it's the re-size halo which is particularly bugging me at the moment.

    I have tried various things in Ps and looked on this site and Google but have reached a point of confusion. Re-sizing with Nearest Neighbour seems to give less of a halo but the image quality suffers so Iím using Bicubic Sharpener which is supposed to be best for reduction but gives the worst halo but better overall image quality. Iím on Windows XP and generally do everything with jpegs but have the same problem saving as tiff without compression then making adjustments. Suggestions please.
    • 1 Nov 2009 5:57PM
  • Commented on 'Loss of sharpness after PS CS3 when viewing in Windows.'

    Hugeknot you are a genius. Or at least you've cured a major headache, so thank you very much.

    Now I'm opening the image in PS, cropping then resizing to 800 pixels on the longest side, making other adjustments, sharpen and save and when I view in Windows at 'actual size' it's just about spot on.

    I'm quite new to this and have seen plenty of info about re-sizing but you managed to explain it so the lightbulb went on in my head.

    Thanks again (and to cameracat and mizzogthegrizzog for responding), best wishes, Mike.
    • 1 Nov 2009 12:23AM
  • Commented on 'Loss of sharpness after PS CS3 when viewing in Windows.'


    When I view a picture in Windows Picture and Fax viewer it isn't as sharp as in Photoshop CS3 (after Unsharp Mask). I take, edit and save as jpegs but have the same result with saving as tiff with or without compression.

    I've set the monitor res in Ps to 300 p/i with same result.

    It is the same if I view the picture in Windows Live Photo Gallery and Breeze Browser Pro but when I use Faststone Image Viewer I get the same sharpness as with Ps which makes me think it isn't a monitor problem.

    I prefer to keep using Windows Picture Viewer as my photo manager but would like to view the image as it is in Ps. Otherwise I have to over-sharpen in Ps to get a reasonable result in Windows which is a bit hit and miss.

    I've tried Google and the forum here but can't find an answer (unless I've missed it, in which case apologies). I'm not resizing for the web at this point so I don't think it's to do with that.

    Is there something I can change in Photoshop or Windows so the image is the same in both?

    Many thanks, Mike.
    • 31 Oct 2009 3:06PM
  • Commented on 'The New Canon 7D'

    Thanks Coleslaw.

    It's just that the noise on my 400D isn't great at 1600 ISO. They've put 18MP in the 7D and if the noise is still comparable to the 50D at high ISO then what was the point? Admittedly all the other specs for the 7D look really cool but how can this be aimed at the Nikon D300s when it's (possibly) crippled already?

    I may be missing the point and I'm sure this will be a great camera but just seeing it has 18MP makes me feel frustrated.

    So, wait for the 60D and see what that has to offer and look out for user reviews of the 7D in the mean-time. Or eBay all my Canon kit and switch to Nikon.

    At dpreview there are sample pictures - two caught my eye. There's a picture of a 'ramp' and 'pedestrians' sign at 400 ISO which has definate out lining around the letters and another of people sat on a balcony taken through metal bars which if you zoom in on has chromatic aberration (if that's what it's called). Many of the other pictures didn't look that sharp to my eye - could just be my eyes though.

    "The 5dmkII and 7d look like a good combo to have" from Steve (haven't figured out links or quotes yet) which was what I was thinking - maybe the 60D will have more of a cross-over if fewer bells?
    • 5 Sep 2009 12:12PM
  • Commented on 'The New Canon 7D'

    Hi, I'm new so sorry if I've missed this.

    So, the 7D is a hobbyists sports camera not necessarily to be used at high ISO although it goes to 6400 (or 12800)?

    Is there to be a 60D or is this it - which I've seen on rumour pages?

    Thanks, Mike.
    • 4 Sep 2009 8:53PM