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04/07/2015 - 4:04 PM

Seeing through my eyes

Seeing through my eyesI rather like this. A slice of life. It suffers a little from an extreme range of contrast with a few areas burnt out. Ideally there should be detail there but you have contained the tonal range quite well.

01/07/2015 - 2:00 PM


FamilyNice in general and you had to grab the moment. Your gear should easily handle the high ISO which was obviously needed. Might just slide the dodge tool across mums eyes. Very slightly.

An unfortunate byproduct of high ISO can often be a contrast increas, which just does show on the very bright apple flesh. That is a very minor negative on a fine opportunist image.

24/06/2015 - 7:59 PM


AlleyIt does need work on the shadows as it is a bit difficult to sort out visually as shown. There seems to be a feeling that shadows are difficult to recover in a JPG. You should actually be able to do quite a bit before starting to loose contrast. Highlights are difficult to recover in a JPG, but shadows can respond quite well with the dodge tool set to about 15% and some care not to go too far.

15/06/2015 - 4:17 PM

Pa sa re lla

Pa sa re llaA very nice pictorial record. The colours seemjust a touch strange to me, rather pastel. However, that is quite pleasant but I might lift the contrast a touch.

A subject? Matter of taste. It has no conventional point of compositional focus as such. The path leads beautifully into the image, then round a corner. What lies there? A figure on that corner would serve to lock the composition. The path then leading to a focal point.

09/06/2015 - 2:01 PM


CurvesGenerally covered above. You have two major issues and I consider those the basis of good photography. You must learn to get two things right or you will never produce anything.

Get the exposure right.

Get the image sharp where it matters.

You need to learn to refognise these features after shooting, then correct as necessary and reshoot.

A laptop is not a good editing tiol unfortunately. It oacks tight control. You cannot calibrate the screen properly. Ideally, connect a monitor and when I was using a laptop at events to get results out quickly I had a cheap drawing tablet plugged in to USB. You can get a perfectly good one for less than 40. TRUST is a good maker.

Decent software is also a good idea, but Corel Paintshop or Photoshop Elements do everything any serious photographer needs for about 60.

Hot Summer Evening, Berthong RoadA nice scene but rather soft? I suspect you did not use a tripod, hoping the wide angle would cover the slow shutter speed. Looks like a touch of movement to me.

I would have been at f16. Still more than enough depth of field and a stop more shutter speed. Even f11 should easily be enough.

Your lens will not perform at it's best at f22 and can result in loss of definition. Wider apertures can actually appear sharper due to less aberations.

The Hadrian passing through WylamI always prefer steam locos three quaters on, but this is reasonably effective. I would lighten some of the deeper shadows a touch with the dodge tool, but do find the colour very yellow. The tone is general and thus lloks like degraded yellow base paper. Toning should be progressive with some brighter areas near white and dark areas deep brown, if working in sepia.

I would prefer a nice clean sepia tone.

31/05/2015 - 12:55 PM

Mont Tremblant

Mont TremblantI rather like the effect here. We get a lot of water/landscape images and many are missing a focal point or satisfactory composition. This has no subject as such, but a decent composition of shapes. The water has an interesting almost sky like texture.

I still think a formal focal point would add something, though. A boat would do.

Aiguille du Midi (3842 m). On the way to Mont Blanc.Quite an imposing shot but it looks a touch soft? I wonder why you used f20. You are jot going to get the best performance from the lens at such a small aperture. F8 would have been quite enough at 17 mm.

07/05/2015 - 8:55 AM

Humming Bird hovering

Humming Bird hoveringNot bad at all, but ideally needs to be sharper. A very difficult subject. Try flash on camera which, with a powerfuk gun, will give a very short shutter speed indeed. The problem then will be a very dark background and the need to set flash power manually.

Sometines, the only way is compromise and that is needed here. I would be trying a set piece image with flash on camera and exposure set manually for flash with the flash also on manual and reduced output to get that very short exposure time. Then shoot a lot of frames!

25/04/2015 - 5:09 PM

Night over Tejeda

Night over TejedaQuite an inypteresting image. I would crop a bit from the top to remove some sky and force attention down more ontomthe lights.

Well seen.

14/04/2015 - 8:16 AM

A Glance

A GlanceThe lens EXIF is not there. I assume you were at 200mm, thus 300mm effective. Unfortunately everything is unsharp which is a real pity as this could have been impressive. The animals head must be sharp.

I guess camera shake due to a grab shot and no support. The shutter speed is just not fast enough. Do not assume VR gives you a sharp result, it helps dampen vibration. Depends how much movement there is. No system can correct shake completely, it's relative.

14/04/2015 - 8:04 AM

Dont get to close!!

Dont get to close!!No, use the central point all the time. It looses too much time choosing different points. Leave the camera set to the central focus point for most purposes. Place that on the eye, take half pressure on the release button to lock focus, keep that pressure, recompose then finish the exposure.

With practice, takes just a second, literally.

This is not sharp anywhere and thus looses impact.

Once there was a barn owl - far, far away...You have a perfectly reasonable image for your records. In terms of getting it better, I fear you are on a hiding to nothing. The bird needs to be nearer the camera in the first place, you need to be on full zoom and with, at least, a monopod for support to try and negate or reduce camera shake.

Even the big boys with the very expensive gear shoot a lot of frames to get one really good one.

The only way you could have got this better is full zoom, very good light and a monopod. RAW would not help much if at all as the problems are too fundamental.

03/04/2015 - 7:13 PM


PortraitYou are missing something on the manual focus front. You shouldn't be in reading buttons as such but you are using a compact, so manual focus in the classical sense may be difficult or near impossible.

Use focus lock. Place the focus point on the eye, half press the shutter button causing the camera to focus. Keep the pressure on the shutter button to hold that focus point, recompose and complete the pressure to take the shot.

This is quite good. Looks sharp enough to me and I like you tight composition. Cropping the top of the head is totally acceptable.

A nice portrait.

25/03/2015 - 8:07 AM

Her Eyes!

Her Eyes!A nice shot. I would have composed with less to the left and more to the right to move the eyes, in effect, to the left. then a more balanced composition.

18/03/2015 - 1:20 PM

medieval insights

medieval insightsCrop in left and right to a more portrait format - most of the wall is not needed, then up the contrast a touch to improve clarity and impact. Well seen and the basis of a good image.

17/03/2015 - 1:53 PM

The Tunnel at Poplar Station

The Tunnel at Poplar StationVery photogenic. It does seem to be devoid of tonal extremes. A bit of contrast and a slightly darker image would up the impact rather I think. I suspect there are few colours there to work with.

13/03/2015 - 9:18 AM


StellaVery well done. I might just increase the eye density a touch with the burning in tool to increase impact. Not sure the hand was needed in shot for this one.


11/03/2015 - 7:16 AM

Sleeping beauty

Sleeping beautyDecent image. The problem is not the harsh light it is where it is falling. The Leopard has got into shade to keep cool so the light is lower on the subject than the background. Thus a slightly flat effect. You could try increasing contrast a little, then run the burning in tool over the brighter background.