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10/08/2015 - 8:01 PM


Airbourne..It is a good effort of a difficult subject and the boat is coendably sharp. I do find the ovrall exposure a bit over and would darken and lift contrast. A slight top crop to reove the small very blurred boats and I would clone out the turn bouy.

I know it's part of the story in a sense, but it does intrude.

10/08/2015 - 7:55 PM


sceneryI find the long level far bank a bit off putting lacking in interesting details. The sky needs to be rather darker so burn that whole area in and crop some of the water. As John notes, the boat is cut by the far bank and would be better with water above.

07/08/2015 - 8:59 PM

Fascinated by Water

Fascinated by WaterI rather like this as presented. Well handled and presented. The figure just jars very slightly. She seems to be looking right out of the frame and it would have been better looking left.

04/08/2015 - 2:29 PM

flower vendor

flower vendorFor me, the window adds nothing. It is by far the brightest part of the imageand pulls the eye very quickly from the main subject. I would be looking at a landscape formatwith the vendor placed nearer the right for copsiinal balance.

02/08/2015 - 6:07 PM

Pipe Player from South America

Pipe Player from South AmericaAll been said. he main problemis the basic composition. He needs to be much nearer the right with the space in front of him. We canonly comment on what we can see and you wold have been very much better at a much longer focallength to fill thhe frame more with his head and also render thebackground much softer.

try and analyse the situation i the viewfinder when shooting.

02/08/2015 - 6:00 PM


STORM DAMAGEQuite strong but the boat blends rather with the land. a slight change of viewpoiint would crect that. A polariser will have virtually no effect with the sun in this position other than act as a weak ND filter. Polarisers are at the most effective at right angles to the sun.

28/07/2015 - 1:00 PM

Blue Bay Walk (part 2)

Blue Bay Walk (part 2)Your problem is flare. This is none image foring light scatter causing the milky effect. This can siply be bright lightgetting into the lns but it is important that the lens front eleent is clean. Dirt and grease caause flare.

Older lenses an be sources of flare. Sme lenses designed before digital sensors can flare badly due to inadequate coatings.

You do nt need to be at such high ISO. A mximum of 400 is enough with longer exposure and the camea on a tripod. The smaller the aperture chosen, f16 is small, the more you get a star effect from lights.

27/07/2015 - 6:57 PM


GuldowdiI shoot a lot of macro. Macro is 1:1 or greater. Some stretch that to 1:2..

Do nt buy supplementaris. They do not get close to acro and are usually detrimental to image quality. The cheapest way to get quality is a 50m standrd lens and a set of auto tubes. they are not ideal and are slow to use, but the quality of a 50mm fixxd focal length lens is usually very good.

A full set of 3 tubes is usually a totl of 50mm. 50mm of tubes with a 50mm lens gives 1:1 on a full frame camera. greater with your Nikon, a cropped sensor.

Avoid using tubes with zoom lenses. They work but exposure calculation and magnification control is a minefield. Your choice of a Nikon opens a hge range of high qality gear as would Canon. Nikon lagged behind Canon in the early days of the digital SLR but have, at the very least, caught up.

Sony and Pentax are both good but without the huge background of equipment of the market leaders.
I would be looking at a id range focal length. you are much to close to the subject with the shorter focal lengths and whilst that is not such a problem with flowers, is not a good idea at all with insects.

I would strongly recomment thec105m Sigma EX macro. At least as good as any main anufacturers offering, a lot less expensive and superb quality. Many agazines use this lens to test ne camera bodies. That says something.

This shot. Well done with a phone. I would crop top, bottom and right to concentrate on the sharp area and move the center of the bloo to the right.

17/07/2015 - 7:53 PM

Harbour Bridge

Harbour BridgeI might take a bit off top and bottoms as all the interest is across the middle. A strong well executed imagewhich works in mono. I suspect it might be even better in colour. It is pictorial record and, for me, colour then suites better.

I'm not sure it is crisply sharp? May becompression effects but such a long exposure will be prone to wind, traffic and heavy footfalo vibrations.

Lets run..Moment of joy...ChildhoodVery nice. Could possibly lift detail on the boy in some of the darker areas and I wonder if you shot a sequence. The second lad could be better placed to show more of him.

09/07/2015 - 5:30 PM

That Lonely Tree

That Lonely TreeIt is quite good. I would prefer the tree more to the left. My problem is that the tree just does not stand out from the sky. There is so much cloud break up that it's like camoflage. I think the problem is lighting.

You needed strong directional lighting, possibly late evening, with light on the tree, or a silhouette. It needs something to make the tree stand out.

08/07/2015 - 9:35 AM

Two generations

Two generationsBasically with John on the dodging and burning but you do look a little under exposed? You are using spot metering on an auto exposure mode. You do meter and lock exposure before shooting I hope?

You should not have spot set on an auto mode and just shoot as if you had partial or matrix metering set. Spot is too accurate. You must place the metering spot on the correct tone or use compensation.

An interesting image otherwise but a lot of wasted space, bottom left corner. Think I would be coming in a bit closer to fill the frame with detail.

06/07/2015 - 8:48 AM

Books Knowledge world

Books Knowledge worldGood effort. Your exposure is about right, but I would be doing a bit of dodging to brighten the figure and burning in on the foreground books. Probably a slice off each side to remove the curved stonework.

05/07/2015 - 9:35 AM

Cooling down

Cooling downStrong image with good composition, tight in the frame. Just a touch soft all over. A slow shutter speed with respect to focal length so I suspect a little camera shake.

05/07/2015 - 9:16 AM


VendorVery well done. You have handled difficult lighting very well indeed. Might just crop a touch from the right and dodge the figure of the man seated a little. Care with that as contrast will soon go and that would spoil it.


04/07/2015 - 4:04 PM

Seeing through my eyes

Seeing through my eyesI rather like this. A slice of life. It suffers a little from an extreme range of contrast with a few areas burnt out. Ideally there should be detail there but you have contained the tonal range quite well.

01/07/2015 - 2:00 PM


FamilyNice in general and you had to grab the moment. Your gear should easily handle the high ISO which was obviously needed. Might just slide the dodge tool across mums eyes. Very slightly.

An unfortunate byproduct of high ISO can often be a contrast increas, which just does show on the very bright apple flesh. That is a very minor negative on a fine opportunist image.

24/06/2015 - 7:59 PM


AlleyIt does need work on the shadows as it is a bit difficult to sort out visually as shown. There seems to be a feeling that shadows are difficult to recover in a JPG. You should actually be able to do quite a bit before starting to loose contrast. Highlights are difficult to recover in a JPG, but shadows can respond quite well with the dodge tool set to about 15% and some care not to go too far.

15/06/2015 - 4:17 PM

Pa sa re lla

Pa sa re llaA very nice pictorial record. The colours seemjust a touch strange to me, rather pastel. However, that is quite pleasant but I might lift the contrast a touch.

A subject? Matter of taste. It has no conventional point of compositional focus as such. The path leads beautifully into the image, then round a corner. What lies there? A figure on that corner would serve to lock the composition. The path then leading to a focal point.

09/06/2015 - 2:01 PM


CurvesGenerally covered above. You have two major issues and I consider those the basis of good photography. You must learn to get two things right or you will never produce anything.

Get the exposure right.

Get the image sharp where it matters.

You need to learn to refognise these features after shooting, then correct as necessary and reshoot.

A laptop is not a good editing tiol unfortunately. It oacks tight control. You cannot calibrate the screen properly. Ideally, connect a monitor and when I was using a laptop at events to get results out quickly I had a cheap drawing tablet plugged in to USB. You can get a perfectly good one for less than 40. TRUST is a good maker.

Decent software is also a good idea, but Corel Paintshop or Photoshop Elements do everything any serious photographer needs for about 60.