Back Modifications (3)
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Apartment

By pptbudi
Street photography with little bit architectural, I really want to say thank you and more thank you to the ephotozine critique team and also for other to keep encourage me, if not mistaken this shot taken with Aperture Priority mode and I really love how the result came, it's that white sky behind there, but I still can have the sky shape

Tags: Sky Street Building

Comments


banehawi Plus
15 2.1k 4018 Canada
10 Jan 2017 1:46PM
Its a competent shot. A little brighter can be good. It is aperture priority youve used, and that shutter speed is awfully slow, though its worked.

Because you had to tilt the camera to get the top of the building in the shot, the geometry is affected, with the building tending to become narrower as it rises. This is normal, and you can correct it as in the mod, or leave it.

The important point is to get the centre vertical line of the building to be actually vertical, the one element in an architectural shot you can control despite the lens tilt, and this is off a little.

All in the mod


Regards


Willie

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pptbudi 3 6 Indonesia
10 Jan 2017 2:14PM

Quote:Its a competent shot. A little brighter can be good. It is aperture priority youve used, and that shutter speed is awfully slow, though its worked.

Because you had to tilt the camera to get the top of the building in the shot, the geometry is affected, with the building tending to become narrower as it rises. This is normal, and you can correct it as in the mod, or leave it.

The important point is to get the centre vertical line of the building to be actually vertical, the one element in an architectural shot you can control despite the lens tilt, and this is off a little.

All in the mod


Regards


Willie


I'm watching the modification carefully and those building lines makes me dizzy LOL, sorry, my eyes got cylindris on both, so hard for me to see if it straight or not and yes I've tilt it little bit and stand very still with both elbow putted to body, cause see how slow the shutter is, "centre vertical line of building should be vertical", okay I should remind this, and yes, the modification very great and yes I see it straight and vertical. So the most important to do this I suppose our position should be correct to take that vertical line ?
paulbroad Plus
12 131 1285 United Kingdom
10 Jan 2017 3:56PM
It is an adequate shot and Willie covers it. The light must have been very low for an exposure this long but you got away with it. You could have been at ISO 400 with no notieable quality loss and a faster shutter speed.

Paul
dark_lord Plus
15 2.3k 582 England
10 Jan 2017 8:11PM
A fair record. Willie's mod shows how some straight forward processing can make the most of the image.
Again, don't be afraid to push the ISO. 400 should show little if any quality loss and indeed I think 1600 would be fine from your camera.

Flat lighting will give a flat looking image, but you'll retain plenty of detail. You can increase contrast in these conditions but pushing it too far will cause image quality to reduce. Not that you need it here. Alternatively, convert to mono where you can (often need to) push contrast higher. It works best with subjects that have stron shapes and lines such as here.
dudler Plus
16 893 1504 England
10 Jan 2017 8:54PM
An important point in there - you have some sort of problem with your eyes? Most of us have, but for some it's serious.

It would be interesting to know why and how that makes it hard to see whether things are straight. Then, maybe, we can help you work out a way round it.

I've made things a little darker.

Thisis nicely sharp: setting a standard for all your other work in future. Good conditons have helped, of course. Knowing hwo well yoru camera can perform is always a godo thing, and helps yo ube certain that there's a way to sort it if you aren't gettign good results!
pptbudi 3 6 Indonesia
10 Jan 2017 9:39PM

Quote:It is an adequate shot and Willie covers it. The light must have been very low for an exposure this long but you got away with it. You could have been at ISO 400 with no notieable quality loss and a faster shutter speed.

Paul


Thank you very much Smile, as Dudler said ISO should be the last option to raise even that on Aperture priority Mode, will try in future for more combination with raising ISO
Thank you very much Smile
pptbudi 3 6 Indonesia
10 Jan 2017 9:54PM

Quote:A fair record. Willie's mod shows how some straight forward processing can make the most of the image.
Again, don't be afraid to push the ISO. 400 should show little if any quality loss and indeed I think 1600 would be fine from your camera.

Flat lighting will give a flat looking image, but you'll retain plenty of detail. You can increase contrast in these conditions but pushing it too far will cause image quality to reduce. Not that you need it here. Alternatively, convert to mono where you can (often need to) push contrast higher. It works best with subjects that have stron shapes and lines such as here.


Thank you very much, will try to do ISO combination in future, the mono modification also looks great, aha it heard like landscape mode on color profile on my camera (more contrast).
Thank you very much
pptbudi 3 6 Indonesia
10 Jan 2017 10:17PM

Quote:An important point in there - you have some sort of problem with your eyes? Most of us have, but for some it's serious.

It would be interesting to know why and how that makes it hard to see whether things are straight. Then, maybe, we can help you work out a way round it.

I've made things a little darker.

Thisis nicely sharp: setting a standard for all your other work in future. Good conditons have helped, of course. Knowing hwo well yoru camera can perform is always a godo thing, and helps yo ube certain that there's a way to sort it if you aren't gettign good results!


Actually little hard for me to see if it's already straight or not, cause when saw it on viewfinder or LCD the line marker the line not look straight at all and if I see it to long they turn to wave not a horizontal or vertical line, so I see fast before it turn to wave or I see it several time on short period and keep my hand at that position, if I think one of it already straight with one of the line on view finder or LCD viewfinder, rest of it, focus but on this lenses wouldn't be hard cause it got auto focus facility, I see the modification different with non modification by holding a thread that bound to pendulum at below, if ruler used that will be useless, cause hard to adjust if prepedicular or not, if the thread straight with the line it mean straight tho, even my eyes say it isn't, so the vertical will be easier to see but not the horizontal one.

Setting all standard ? there are 5 standar color profile on my camera, Standard, Potrait, Landscape, Vivid and Netral, which standard that you mean ?, one thing that non standar I used that's I always use my own color profile which I made so far 15 different color profile for any purpose that I think will fit with the situation.

and yes the dark looks very sharp and it's looks very alive, the depth also very good I really like that,

Thank you very much my friend
dudler Plus
16 893 1504 England
10 Jan 2017 10:32PM
I mean setting a standard of sharpness, not colour profile. I don't have a lot of colour profiles, and certainly no custom ones. Not my biggest concern - exposure and sharpness come higher in my priorities.

I am still not sure quite what you mean about 'seeing the line marker' - is this a level built into the camera?
pptbudi 3 6 Indonesia
10 Jan 2017 10:57PM

Quote:I mean setting a standard of sharpness, not colour profile. I don't have a lot of colour profiles, and certainly no custom ones. Not my biggest concern - exposure and sharpness come higher in my priorities.

I am still not sure quite what you mean about 'seeing the line marker' - is this a level built into the camera?


ah yes, at the earlier I try to figure it out where, the sharpness +2 +5 or etc, I didn't set those - Moira or Pamela once ever mention it and you too as well because will hard to adjust (reduce it) in post processing, that sharpness level can be re adjust in color profile on this cam, even on those 5 standard color profile mode they got own sharpness level.
Yes the built in marker the black line and the dot focus on centre, for the honest, I only can see the middle focus if see the line the eyes confusion will came, that's why I always keep the subject focused or missed focus subject in the middle, and with the viefinder magnifier also little bit limited to see those marker, so the center focus is the easier
dudler Plus
16 893 1504 England
11 Jan 2017 8:16AM
'Sharpness' is a confusing word.

These days, you can adjust it on the camera and in processing. What I am talking about, though, is the sharpness you get from:

1 using a shutter speed that avoids camera shake,
2 having the lens accurately focussed;
3 setting the aperture to get the best performance from the lens; and
4 using a good-quality lens.

If you get these right, the picture will be very sharp without doing anything in processing, and the final tweak when you process will only need to be very small.
pptbudi 3 6 Indonesia
11 Jan 2017 11:40AM

Quote:'Sharpness' is a confusing word.

These days, you can adjust it on the camera and in processing. What I am talking about, though, is the sharpness you get from:

1 using a shutter speed that avoids camera shake,
2 having the lens accurately focussed;
3 setting the aperture to get the best performance from the lens; and
4 using a good-quality lens.

If you get these right, the picture will be very sharp without doing anything in processing, and the final tweak when you process will only need to be very small.



oh, sorry my bad, ah yes, I also put the option I really forgot, but I remember this, with that option turn on "the risk of shaking on shutter release being minimize", I think that's really effective compare to timer or tripod using, cause when I pressed the shutter I always feel if the lenses little bit rotating, but since I switch that mode on it's looks like the shaking reduced and if we hit the focus correct the picture remarkably sharp, but I forgot which option is that, and now I try to see it on option menu once by once, which option is that, I really forgot
dudler Plus
16 893 1504 England
14 Jan 2017 5:32PM
When you press the shutter release, several things happen in succession.

The first pressure wakes the camera up and activates the meter and autofocus - that's when the lens rotates. Then, once it has focussed, further pressure releases the shutter.

That's one of the reasons to squeeze gently and progressively. It lets the camera and lens focus and stabilise before you go on and press further to actually take the picture. So it may be less about choosing na option on hte menus, and more about getting your own technique right.

Remeber, when I started taking picutres, you only had technique to rely on. AF and IS were not even dreamed of in 1968...
pptbudi 3 6 Indonesia
17 Jan 2017 3:44PM

Quote:When you press the shutter release, several things happen in succession.

The first pressure wakes the camera up and activates the meter and autofocus - that's when the lens rotates. Then, once it has focussed, further pressure releases the shutter.

That's one of the reasons to squeeze gently and progressively. It lets the camera and lens focus and stabilise before you go on and press further to actually take the picture. So it may be less about choosing na option on hte menus, and more about getting your own technique right.

Remeber, when I started taking picutres, you only had technique to rely on. AF and IS were not even dreamed of in 1968...



ah found it, Shutter delay option ON, yes on half press the meter and focus dot keep stil, after it fully pressed my lenses (the modern or older mode) it's little bit rotate and moving because i feel it and it makes camera bit shaking, but after that shutter delay mode is ON, all works fine

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