Back Modifications (2)
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Calm sea

By Sillu
I was at a bbq when i gave a chance so the sun would settle down .
I used a tripod...
I want to give that feeling to the viewera thats it late at night thats why maybe its a bit under exposed

Tags: Seascape Sea Landscape and travel

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Comments


dudler Plus
17 1.3k 1698 England
23 Sep 2017 9:40AM
My mod deepens tones a bit further. Correct exposure and then tweaking in processing seems to me to give a better-looking 'dusk' look in a picture. Just underexposing doesn't work quite as well.

Nothing is really sharp - I would expect better from an Alpha 7. Maybe the tripod wasn't solid, maybe you didn't use the self-timer to avoid shake. And maybe the focus is not ideal. I think the rocks on the right are the most important area - did you use Manual exposure, and leave focus on AF, I wonder, so thati t defaulted to the horizon? I might work the other way round, with Aperture mode and careful manual focus... The Alphas have amazingly accurate focus aids: if you don't know about this feature, you are missing out badly - it's one of the very best reason to own an Alpha 7! Ask if you want details...
mrswoolybill Plus
13 2.3k 2266 United Kingdom
23 Sep 2017 1:34PM
Just to add to John's technical advice, a compositional point - the lit up building with its spectacular reflections in the water is right over on the edge of the frame, I would prefer it a little way in from the edge, so move round a few degrees clockwise. Here it looks like an afterthought rather than a real feature of the composition.
Moira
banehawi Plus
16 2.3k 4163 Canada
23 Sep 2017 4:48PM
I have to think you were experimenting here with a long exposure? There no a lot of content to engage the viewer.

I have to wonder why you chose ISO 320? Why not ISO 100, or whatever the lowest ISO is?

Theres no detail in the closest rocks, meaning that where you focused was not ideal, and/or the aperture needs to be smaller for 28mm, - f/11 - f/16. Its a little fuzzy overall, - I wounder with the Sony if you need to disable OSS for a tripod long exposure?

The mod crops off most of the blurred rocks, and then becomes a 16 X 9 format which may worl better.


Regards


Willie
Sillu 5 Malta
23 Sep 2017 5:12PM
So i used manual focus i focused arround 3m from where i was standing as when i did it in AF my sony coud'nt lock on any thing i thind becouse it was a bit dark for the af to work..
I think the tripod was prety steady and i used self tiner of 2 sec.dudler so you can fill me up with details about the focus aid assist ?
Yes my oss was switched off as well
banehawi Plus
16 2.3k 4163 Canada
23 Sep 2017 9:43PM
3M is way too close, you need to focus much further out, not on the horizon. Look up hyperfocal distance for more information.

You didnt verify that AF was turned off, - you could manually focus, then use the self timer and it will immediately auto focus on another point!

Focus aids are live view, magnification of the image in screen before shooting, zebra stripes, etc, all in the manual.

Using any tripod is not as reliable as using a good tripod that has stability and the ability to add a weight, such as the camera bag, to the centre column. A flimsy tripod wouldnt be stable enough. When you say you think your tripod was pretty steady, then I can conclude it wasnt. The right answer, when you have confidence in your gear, is YES.


W
dark_lord Plus
16 2.6k 695 England
24 Sep 2017 9:12PM
The tripod was not as steady as you thought, the evidence is in front of us.Focus is tricky fro both people and AF systems in dim light so it just comes down to care and practice.

There is a large area with little interest here. The bright area pulls th eeye to the edge of the picture. Both of these mean 90% of the image is being ignored by the viewer.
Place the light area furhter into the image (use the 'rule of thirds' if you like) and make something of the light coming across the water and hitting those rocks (good use of foreground interest.
As you were at a barbecue you could have got a person to feature in the foreground (as a silhouette, so no need for them to be identified) to give a strong point of interest.
dudler Plus
17 1.3k 1698 England
26 Sep 2017 5:20AM
There is a facility on the Alpha 7 bodies to magnifyany part of the image - you need to select manual focus, and program one of the function buttons to select magnification. Then, one press selects the area, a second press magnifies, and a third press magnifies more. At any of these three stages, either the control wheels or the four-way buttons will move the position of the magnified area around the frame.

This isn't the same as focus peaking, where the sharp areas are highlighted in coloour - it's far more accurate. It's called Focus Magnify. You need to set Focus Magnif. Time to No Limit in the cogwheel menu, and in Custom Key Settings you need to assign one of hte function buttons - I use Custom Button 1, marked C1, next to the shutter release.

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