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Hi welcome to my images. Wayne
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  • I found a snow plug-in for photoshop (free somewhere) that lets you change the colour and size of the flakes, it did a reasonable job of faking comfetti although I only played with it.
  • I'm not sure you should be "fixing" this, these need to be accurite I suspect, cloning or repairing the image means it's altered, you might loose something important. I'd suggest you get your film from elsewhere or return it as damaged, the makers must know if it's being xrayed if it's the normal practice and shouldn't sell abroad if their products going to be faulity when it arrives.
  • This might do what you want not sure as I havent tried it.
    page curl
  • If the object is flat and the original texture big enough it might work, but there are other ways, you could select the area and use the texturiser (and load your texture) if the object isn't flat and you need to "wrap" the texture over it look up displacement maps.
  • Thank you Tracy.
  • Thank you Tracey Smile
  • Somebody please tell me thats not going to be the next craze here!
  • Just having a read of the terms and conditions and I'm wondering exactly this means. Does that mean they wont use them or they may use them but not for products I don't like, if so how will they know what I like or dislke??

    Photos will used by the Sponsor for the sole purpose of the Royal Wedding Celebration Photo Book, and none will be acknowledged or returned. Sponsor shall have the right to edit, adapt and publish any or all of the Photos to fit into the format of the Wedding Book, and may use for the sole purpose of the The Peoples Royal Wedding Book. Albelli will not use the photographs to advertise products that the entrant would not approve of. Albelli has no intent to exploit the entrants images or to reproduce the submitted photographs without your permission. The Sponsor and Administrator are not responsible for lost, late, incomplete, invalid, un-intelligible or misdirected Photos, which are disqualified. All of the Sponsorís decisions are final.
  • Your not saving as jpeg 2000 by mistake? does the file have the correct .jog extension on the name, if you rename it's sometimes possible to put in the name after the extension, try renaming the file A.jpg and see if it works then.
  • You should ideally view at 100% when sharpening, neither Lightroom or Photoshop display sharpening or noise reduction properly at other resolutions, if you must use a lower magnification try and keep it at 50% or 25% in-between amounts can give a misleading display otherwise.
  • Which version of photoshop do you have, the sharpening in CS5 and LR3 are essentailly the same (they share a processing engine) do you have export sharpening set in LR?
  • No they are not essential but they do help, the ND filter can be mimicked in photoshop or a bracked exposure can be blended, but a polarizing filter can't really be replicated in the polar effect but the boost to colour saturation can be.
    As for the quality, you get what you pay for, but I saw a lab test a few years back that showed the differences between the various filters, and while there was a difference the test suggested in real world shooting unless you bought dodgy real cheapie filters you wouldn't be able to tell the difference.
  • I have used the Sigma many times, it's a good lens, plenty sharp enough, I haven't compared it to the canon though.
  • As dave says above, Adobe supply a FREE converter that will convert your Canon raw file to adobe DNG (a sort of adobe raw) these will open in CS3 exactly the same as your normal raw files would.

    Left Forum unlike Ford Adobe don't charge for the updates to camera raw, you BUY an oil filter or spark plugs (and they are not made by Ford either)

  • Quote:If you buy Canon, you'll need to use Canon lenses!

    Nikon has kept the same lens mount for the past 51 years, so we can use nearly all our oldest lenses on the newest higher-end bodies, such as the D90. The D90 is good enough to keep - without the nagging feeling that you need to up-grade it.

    On a more practical level, you'd be wise to choose whichever feels nicer to use. Then you'll be happy to keep your kit for a lot longer without wishing that you should have chiosen the other make.

    While the mount has remained more or less unchanged there are compatability issues with some models and all the older lens are obviously manual focus and will only work in certain modes, so this is slightly misleading.

  • Quote:The Lights Right has a sharpening tool kit that can be quite useful....HERE

    Do check...but as I remember you copy and paste these files into C>Program Files>Adobe> Your version of Photoshop>Presets>scripts............

    It includes a Capture Sharpen, Creative sharpen and an Output Sharpen

    These are based on the well known PK sharpner and are very good.
  • Or download Gimp for free. Is the photo your working with in black and white or do you have a full colour version to work from, adding colour to a b+w only version may not work so well depending on the tones.
  • I'm not convinced theres enough new to justify a $99 upgrade price, thats around half of the full price of something like lightroom which does so much more, and at $199 for the full version it's pretty steep for what is essentially a B+W conversion, even if it is a good one.
  • There have been some issues reported with slow running (mostly on windows) I have tried it but it's a LOT slower than version 1.0 on my computer. Not that impressed yet but only tried it last night.
  • Some people favor a 3 step sharpeming, others will just do 1 or 2 of the steps.
    ! capture sharpening (to replace the loss of sharpening by the AA filter on the camera.
    2 Creative sharpening, maybe the forground in a landscape or the eyes in a portrait.
    3 output sharpening, this is done for type and size of finished image.
    Some people will use the camera raw sharpen as a capture sharpen, then add the creative sharpen in photoshop proper, maybe with edge masking or using layer mast to localise the sharpening.
  • The D5000 appears to be supported but you may need to update the program for the latest raw version.
  • One shot af, best for still shots, the camera locks focus.
    Ai servo af, suitable for moving subjects, focus is continuously ajusted.
    Ai focus af, suitable when you cant decide, depending on subject movemet the camera will switch between both modes.
    This from the handbook of I think the 400d but should be pretty much the same.

  • Quote:Are you referring to page 200??

    Which book?, Scott's got quite a few out.
    Edit it's page 147 of Scotts the "Adobe photoshop book CS5 for digital photographers" (I think)

  • Quote:For instance my scores are with 20 history states.

    WIN 7 64bit
    Core2 Q8300
    4GB DDR2 800
    500MB HDD

    28 seconds (1 history state)

    Why did you run it with 20 history states?? Surely the results will all be completely meaningless if we're all setting things up differently.

    20 is the default, probably left it at that.
  • 1. Is it only the same few images that wont ajust or is it lots of images?
    2. Whats your workflow, do you copy the images off the card if so are you doing it with the camera connected to the computer or a card reader?
    3. What camera model and what version of photoshop?
    4. What happens when you try to change it, do the sliders move or is it greyed out?
  • It might be safer to save them somewhere just in case.
  • Check out fotofusion, they have some good stuff, also the album compay you use may well have their own free stuff.
  • Ken is a somewhat controversial figure, he admits a lot of what he says is "tongue in cheek"
    Raw isn't for everyone, but the fact remains it's better quality (12 or 14 bit as opposed to 8 bit jpeg) and if your using lightroom the processing is essentially the same. Can you see a difference? well it depends on what your doing to the image, but if your making big ajustments your better off starting with more rather than less.
  • You don't need to use special software to copyright your images, you already own the copyright. If your refering to marking your images you can make a brush with your logo in photoshop and just click that on your pics. Another way to mark your pics is to make an action to apply your logo to batches.
    As for special software, to be honest if you can see the image on the net it can be stolen, you can disable right clicking etc but at the end of the day if somebody wants to steal it they can.
  • It needs open gl drawing enabled in the gpu (graphics) in photoshop go to edit/preference/proformance and the options bottom right, if it's greyed out you'll either need to update your graphics drivers or update the card itself for one with proper GPU support (theres a list on Adobes site of recomended cards somewhere)